Nivea Visage Q10 Plus Anti-Wrinkle Day Cream with UVA protection

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Nivea Visage Q10 Plus Day Cream SPF 15

Nivea has just renovated in April 2010 its anti-wrinkle pilar range. The Day formula has now an improved UVA protection, and a new active ingredient.

Technology / Formula structure :

Nivea Visage Q10 Day Cream SPF 15
Nivea Visage Q10 Day Cream SPF 15

O/W emulsion based on the following surfactant : Glyceryl Stearate / Croda Myrj S40 (PEG-40 Stearate), co-emulsified with Cetearyl Alcohol, thickened and stabilized by Carbomer and Carrageenan (Chondrus Cripsus) polymers.

The water phase only contains Glycerin as moisturizing agent. Methylpropanediol is more a co-preservative agent, even if it can help in moisturization efficiency. Besides, it also contain a water-soluble UV filter, Sodium Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonate, salt form of Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Merck Eusolex 232)

The oil phase is made of Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (ie Finsolv TN by Innospec) – usually used as UV filter solubilizer -, Microcrystalline Wax (Cera Microcristallina), Paraffin Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) and Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Miglyol 810 or 812 by Sasol) for non-silicone oils, and Dimethicone for silicone oils.

The oil phase also contains oil-soluble UV filters : Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Symrise Neo Heliopan OS), Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (DSM Parsol 1789) and Octocrylene.

The formula structure (surfactants, thickeners and oils except the UV filters) is the same between this new version of Q10 Plus and the previous one.

Preservative system :

The formula is protected against microorganisms by Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben. It contains also Benzyl Alcohol, which can be here for its anti-microbial properties, or because it is an allergen (their mention is mandotory in Europe on cosmetic products). The formula also contains co-preservative agents : Methylpropanediol (Stéarinerie Dubois Dub DIOL) and Ethylhexylglycerin (Schülke and Mayr Sensiva SC50).

The formula also contains Trisodium EDTA as sequestrant.

Active ingredients / Claims :

The active ingredients are the same between this new version of Q10 Plus and the previous one. Only UV filters are different.

Active ingredients of Q10 Plus Day :

As usual, Nivea formulas contain a minimum number of active ingredients, at least to substantiate their claims and to bring efficacy to the formulas. No exception for Q10 Plus Day, with three active ingredients :

Ubiquinone :

INCI name of Coenzyme Q10 : present in the body and implied in the cellular energetic cycle, it is commonly used as a dietary supplement due to its antioxydant properties. First introduced in cosmetic on the market in 1998 by Nivea in its Q10 Anti-Wrinkle range, Q10 is presented by the brand as the “anti-wrinkle already in your skin”.

Beiersdorf, owner of Nivea, has conducted studies to evaluate its skin anti-aging properties through topical application. It published in 1998 an article (full article available here) concluding on the capacity of CoQ10 to prevent many of the detrimental effects of photoaging :

– reduction of oxidation level in the epidermis

– reduction of wrinkle depth

– effect against UVA mediated oxidative stress

– prevention of oxidative DNA damage

– significant suppression of the expression of collagenase in human dermal fibroblasts following UVA irradiation

These results were presented in May 1998 by Beiersdorf in Boston at the First Conference of the International Coenzyme Q10 Association. Beiersdorf is one of the supportive members of this association. Coenzyme Q10 is not just another “marketing active ingredient” for Beiersdorf, but a strategic ingredient studied continuously by its labs.

Several Beiersdorf patents protect the use of Ubiquinone in cosmetic compositions. Among them, the oldest, largest and most relevant for skincare seems to be :

– patent WO 1995026181 filled in 1994 protects compositions containing combinations of ubiquinones and plastoquinones

– patent EP0751762 filled in 1995 protects compositions containing combinations of Retinoids and Ubiquinone

– patent EP0859592 filled in 1996 protects compositions containing combinations of Sterols and Ubiquinone.

Pimpinella Anisum Extract :

Extract of Anise. Already present in the previous version on Nivea Q10 Day Cream, there are very strong probabilities that this extract of Anise is the same as the one used in Nivea Expert Lift under the trade name “Bioxilift“. No reference is made upon this active ingredient in the current communication of the Q10 range. In Expert Lift communication, Bioxilift is presented as “a 100% natural extract from the Anise plant – to support the tightening and firming of the skin, leading to a defined contouring effect”.

According to Beiersdorf patents WO2006128781, WO2006128778, WO2006128777 and WO2006128780, Bioxilift / Pimpinella Anisum Extract is an active ingredient supplied to Beiersdorf by Silab. Moreover, Silab owns the trade name “Bioxilift” for Europe since 2004, and Beiersdorf owns it for other countries since 2007. Bioxilift was in the Silab’s catalogue in 2004, but is not available in current Silab catalogue. This Pimpinella Anisum Extract seems to be an exclusivity of Silab for Beiersdorf (the french mini-site dedicated to Expert Lift says about Bioxilift that it is “exclusively producted for Beiersdorf”).

In terms of efficacy, Bioxilift is claimed by Nivea in Expert Lift communication as acting on dermal collagene network. In this same 2004 article, this active ingredient is said to “relax the skin”. Bioxilift seems to be born initially to surf on the “Botox-like” trend : according to this website, “BIOXILIFT® reduces the phenomena of microtensing and visibly smoothes expression lines. It is a safe and natural alternative to BOTOX® and botulinum toxin injections. BIOXILIFT® acts effectively on the three target zones of expression wrinkles and significantly reduces the total wrinkled surface. Gives the face and body a natural rested appearance. BIOXILIFT® is an active tensor ingredient that prevents the transmission of contraction orders by limiting the influx of sodium into muscle cells. It thus inhibits the contraction of myofibrils. BIOXILIFT® has a BOTOX®-like muscle relaxant effect.”

Tocopheryl Acetate : Vitamin E derivative.

New SPF 15 UV filter system in Q10 Day Cream renovation :

The change made in the UV filter system is the major difference between the previous and the new version of Q10 Day Cream. According to Nivea, the UVA filtration has been increased.

– Previous version of Q10 Day Cream UV filtration system :

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate : also known as DSM Parsol MCX, absorbs UVB, and non-photostable

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane : also known as DSM Parsol 1789, absorbs UVA, and non-photostable

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid : also known as Merck Eusolex 232, absorbs UVB, and non-photostable

Titanium Dioxide (and) Trimethoxycaprylylsilane : supplied by Evonik-Degussa under the trade name TegoSun T 805, filters UVB and photostable

New Q10 Day Cream UV filtration system :

Ethylhexyl Salicylate : also known as Symrise Neo Heliopan OS, absorbs UVB, and photostable

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane : also known as DSM Parsol 1789, absorbs UVA, and non-photostable

Octocrylene : absorbs UVB and short-UVA, and photostable

Sodium Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonate, salt form of Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (also known as Merck Eusolex 232) : absorbs UVB, and non-photostable

Titanium Dioxide (and) Trimethoxycaprylylsilane : supplied by Evonik-Degussa under the trade name TegoSun T 805, filters UVB and photostable

One important point to look at in UV filter systems is their photostability. As explained in this article, if a UV filter is not photostable, it is degraded under UV exposure, and loses its protective efficiency after a certain period of time. In the previous Q10 Day Cream, the UV filter system associates Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX) and Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), which is known to be none-photostable. In the new formula, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX) has been replaced by Ethylhexyl Salicylate and Octocrylene. First, Octocrylene brings a short-UVA filtration to the formula, and secondly, the association of Octocrylene and Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789) is photostable.

We do not have the percentages of each filter used in these formulas. However, we can say that Nivea improved the UV filter system of Q10 Plus Cream, making it more photostable. The UVA filtration has possibly been improved too through the use of Octocrylene.

Nivea presents this formula change and this UV filter system improvement as a novelty, saying on its swiss website that “an increased UVA protection and an SPF 15 carry out an optimal prevention against wrinkles and protect skin agains premature cutaneous aging”. However, this renovation is also due to the new European regulatory measures on sunscreen cosmetic products. Indeed, the “COMMISSION RECOMMENDATION of 22 September 2006 on the efficacy of sunscreen products and the claims made relating thereto” establishes that “The minimum degree of protection provided by sunscreen products should be as follows :

– a UVB protection of sun protection factor 6 as obtained in application of the International Sun Protection Factor Test Method (2006) or an equivalent degree of protection obtained with any in vitro method

– a UVA protection of UVA protection factor of 1/3 of the sun protection factor, as obtained in application of the persistent pigment darkening method as modified by the French health agency Agence française de sécurité sanitaire des produits de santé – Afssaps or an equivalent degree of protection obtained with any in vitro method

Even if Nivea had a UVA protection in its previous version of Q10 Plus Day Cream, the UVA protection factor (“Persistent Pigment Darkening”) was certainly behind 1/3 of the SPF value, requiring a rework of the formula. This also explains this renovation of Q10 Plus Day Cream.

Conclusion :

This renovation of Nivea pillar Q10 Plus Day Cream SPF 15 is mainly a renovation of the UV filter system, presented as a “improvement of UVA filtration”.

The structure of the formula remains the same, a very classical yet very stable and liked by consumers. As usual, the formula contains only the necessary active ingredients, here Ubiquinone and Beiersdorf’s extract of Anise. This one is not discussed so much in Q10 Plus communication.

The main evolution is made on the UV filters : it has been improved to a more photostable association, leaving Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate/ Parsol MCX for an Ethylhexylsalicylate + Octocrylene association. One could assume that this change has also and maybe mainly been made to make the Q10 Plus Day Cream compliant with European regulation on sunscreen products.

Ingredient list :

Nivea Q10 Plus Day Cream SPF 15 (new formula) :

Aqua
Glycerin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Methylpropanediol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Glyceryl Stearate
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Octocrylene
Cera Microcristallina
Paraffinum Liquidum
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Sodium Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonate
Ubiquinone
Pimpinella Anisum Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
PEG-40 Stearate
Chondrus Crispus
Carbomer
Dimethicone
Titanium Dioxide
Trimethoxycaprylylsilane
Trisodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Methylparaben
Benzyl Alcohol
Limonene
Parfum

Nivea Q10 Plus Day Cream SPF 15 (previous formula) :

Aqua
Glycerin
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Methylpropanediol
Butyrospermum Parkii
Glyceryl Stearate
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Cera Microcristallina
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid
Paraffinum Liquidum
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Ubiquinone
Pimpinella Anisum Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Titanium Dioxide
Dimethicone
Trimethoxycaprylylsilane
Chondrus Crispus
Sodium Carbomer
Ethylhexylglycerin
PEG-40 Stearate
Trisodium EDTA
Methylparaben
Phenoxyethanol
BHT
Parfum

5 COMMENTS

  1. I am shocked that Nivea has included Limonene in their new Q 10 day cream, as Limonene is: Phototoxic !

    The definition of Phototoxic is: Causing skin pigmentation, when skin is exposed to sun !

    I have used this product for 5 years, and will not be buying the new version.

    Do you have stock of the old product, that I could purchase ?

  2. After 2 days of using this cream I developed an itchy red rash. After 3 days ths rash had developed into an inflamed, red, raised weepy rash that was all over my face and neck. I am currently off work and my Dr has prescribed a strong steroid ecsthma cream to get rid of it. Do not use if you have sensitive skin!

  3. I only used this cream once, developed a red, raised and inflamed rash all over face and neck, eyes puffy and swollen; still there 3 days later! Don’t think I’ll be using it again, my skin isn’t that sensitive either.

  4. I also only used this cream once,same as Mel developed very red raised irritated rash all over face.Took antihistamines but following morning eyes were puffy tho’ redness slightly reduced.

  5. I prefer the old formula rather the new one. when i started using the new formula I have burning sensation on my skin especially when i sweat.

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