Henkel Diadermine has just added in July 2010 in France a new range to its Dr Caspari brand : Novagen Intense Age Repair, communicating on stem cells.

The new Diadermine Dr Caspari Novagen Intense Age Repair is made of three products :

Novagen Intense Age Repair Soin de Jour / Day Care :

Formula structure :

O/W Emulsion, emulsified with a sugar derivative Arachidyl Glucoside (and) Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (Seppic Montanov 202), helped with Cetearyl Alcohol, thickened and stabilized with Seppic Simulgel NS (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Polysorbate 60 (and) Squalane).

The aqueous phase contains glycols (glycerin, propylene glycol)

The oil phase contains a synthetic triglyceride (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride), a natural triglyceride (Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter)),  a very light oil : Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cognis Cetiol CC), and silicones : Cyclomethicone, Dimethiconol. It contains oils with different skin feel properties, from volatile and/or very light ones (Cyclomethicone, Dicaprylyl Carbonate) to very nutritious ones (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride / Shea Butter). The Dimethiconol is a silicone gum that improves spreading, and gives a very soft finish on skin.

Preservative system :

The formula is protected against microorganisms by Phenoxyethanol / Methylparaben / Ethylparaben, helped with a diol, Hexanediol. Under the “Hexanediol” INCI name could be found 1,2-Hexanediol or 1,6-Hexanediol. Preservative properties are known for both of them. We cannot state if this formula contains 1,2- or 1,6-Hexanediol. However, Henkel owns a patent protecting the use of 1,6-Hexanediol as a preservative agent (WO/1998/023245). We can notice that most of the Diadermine formulas contain Hexanediol.

Active ingredients :

– Mibelle Phyto Cell Tec Malus Domestica (Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Glycerin (and) Lecithin (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Aqua / Water)
– Cognis Controx KS C (Tocopherol (and) Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate)
– Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
– BASF Filling Sphere Hyaluronic (Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Silica Dimethyl Silylate)
– Exsymol DSH CN (Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate)
– Sederma Matrixyl 3000 (Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (and) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (and) Carbomer (and) Polysorbate 20 (and) Butylene Glycol)
– BASF Linefactor (Hibiscus Abelmoschus Seed Extract) (BASF website)
– Plankton Extract
– Lipotec Lipochroman-6 (Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol)
– Caffeine

Conclusion :

This formula is based on a now classical and 100% Seppic technology : the sugar derivative surfactant Montanov 202 coupled with Simulgel NS polymer. This association gives nice textures, dense and smooth.

Novagen Intense Age Repair Soin de Nuit / Night Care :

Formula structure :

O/W Emulsion, emulsified with a sugar derivative Arachidyl Glucoside (and) Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (Seppic Montanov 202), helped with Cetearyl Alcohol, thickened and stabilized with Seppic Simulgel EPG (Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Polyisobutene (and) Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside). Two other surfactants are present in this formula (Coco-glucoside / Sorbitan Oleate) that have been added to stabilize the emulsion, or that are ingredients of other raw material used in the formula.

The aqueous phase contains glycols (glycerin, propylene glycol)

The oil phase contains a synthetic triglyceride – Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – ,  natural triglycerides – Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter) and Cocoglycerides -, and light synthetic oils, both presented by their suppliers as good subsitutes to silicones – Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cognis Cetiol CC) and Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate (Lubrizol Schercemol™ NGDO Ester). It is worth to notice that the formula does not indeed contain silicon oils.

Preservative system :

The formula is protected against microorganisms by Phenoxyethanol / Methylparaben / Ethylparaben, helped with Hexanediol.

Active ingredients :

– Mibelle Phyto Cell Tec Malus Domestica (Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Glycerin (and) Lecithin (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Aqua / Water)
– Exsymol DSH CN (Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate)
– Cognis Controx KS C (Tocopherol (and) Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate)
– Retinyl Palmitate
– Sederma Matrixyl 3000 (Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (and) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (and) Carbomer (and) Polysorbate 20 (and) Butylene Glycol)
– Lipotec Lipochroman-6 (Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol)
– Sodium Lactate

Conclusion :

Like the Day formula, the Night formula is based on a Seppic technology : Montanov 202 / Simulgel EPG. This polymer is a PEG-free and Alcane-free alternative to Simulgel EG. Day and Night formulas are quite close, with a oil phase maybe more nutritious for the Night formula, with the use of natural glycerides (Cocoglycerides) and fatty ester (Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate) instead of light silicone in the Day formula.

Novagen Intense Age Repair Fluide Elixir / Fluid Elixir :

Formula structure :

Emulsified Gel based on Cognis Cosmedia SP (Sodium Polyacrylate), helped with two surfactants (Coco-glucoside and Isoceteth-10)

The aqueous phase contains glycols (Glyceryl and Propylene Glycol)

The oil phase contains Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cognis Cetiol CC) and .

The formula contains also Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica (Dow Corning 9701 Cosmetic Powder) and pearls (mica) to improve skin feel and skin appearance. The DC 9701 Cosmetic Powder is claimed by its supplier to “mask wrinkles”, “give skin smooth, silky and powdery feeling” typical of currently available serums on the market (Estée Lauder Perfectionist CP+ / Olay Regenerist Serum).

Preservative system :

The formula is protected against microorganisms by Phenoxyethanol / Methylparaben / Ethylparaben

Active ingredients :

– Retinyl Palmitate
– Mibelle Phyto Cell Tec Malus Domestica (Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Glycerin (and) Lecithin (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Aqua / Water)
– Cognis Controx KS C (Tocopherol (and) Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate)
– Exsymol DSH CN (Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate)
– Sederma Matrixyl 3000 (Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (and) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (and) Carbomer (and) Polysorbate 20 (and) Butylene Glycol)
– Lipotec Lipochroman-6 (Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol)
– Sodium Lactate

Conclusion :

This “Fluid Elixir” is inspired by the successful current serums based on crosslinked silicon polymers and light oils. To reinforce the silky and velvety feeling of the formula, Henkel added Cognis Cosmedia SP as texturizing polymer. It has good thickening properties, with a very smooth and non sticky feel on skin.

Communication and Claims on the Diadermine Dr. Caspari Novagen range

Diadermine clearly wants to communicate with Novagen on the very trendy topics of genes and stem cells. A lot of cosmetic brands are currently surfing on these new targets, like L’Oréal Paris Youth Code, HR Prodigy Powercell, Dior Capture R60/80 XP, Nivea DNAge,…etc.

To be able to talk about stem cells and genes on its Novagen range, Henkel has been quite smart, avoiding potential problems of ethics or sincerity : the link between Novagen products efficiency and genes and stem cells is quite indirect.

– the only place where it is talked about genes is in the name of the range, “Novagen”.

– on the pack, there is a statement on the role of stem cells in the epiderm : “Stem cells – “youth source” of the skin : it is known that stem cells are the “youth source” of the epiderm. Indeed, in a young skin, the good activity of stem cells promotes new cells production and allows the skin to regenerates permanently. With time, stem cells activity is reduced and the skin renewal is slowed down. Result : skin flakens, wrinkles and fine lines appear and complexion is duller and duller.”

And then comes on the pack the properties of Novagen “Intense Age-Repair” :

“Novagen Intense Age-Repair with vegetal stem cell complex acts a two levels :

1. – It protects cutaneous stem cell environment for extending their ability to initiate the regeneration process of skin

2. – It stimulates the “reparing” processes of skin like Collagen, Fibronectin and Hyaluronic Acid productions.”

Henkel has added in its product a “Vegetal Stem Cell Complex”, build around the Mibelle Phyto Cell Tec Malus Domestica (Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Glycerin (and) Lecithin (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Aqua / Water). Mibelle main claim for this active is “Plant stem cells to protect skin stem cells”, corresponding to the first level of action of the Novagen range.

Ingredients

Novagen Intense Age Repair Soin de Jour / Day Care :

Novagen Intense Age Repair Soin de Nuit / Night Care :

Novagen Intense Age Repair Fluide Elixir / Fluid Elixir :