Clarins is launching in March 2011 a new body range : Lift Fermeté / Extra-Firming.

Clarins re-uses the brand “Lift-Fermeté” used until now for a body cream (Lift Fermeté “La Crème Jeunesse du Corps” / Body Firming Cream) of a new range of two body products :

– a Lait Fondant Régénérant / Body Lotion

– a Crème Riche Régénérante / Body Cream

Clarins Lift-Fermeté Lait Fondant Régénérant / Extra-Firming Body Lotion

Formula Structure

O/W emulsion, emulsified with Seppic Montanov L (C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside (and) C14-22 Alcohols) / DSM Amphisol K (Potassium Cetyl Phosphate), thickened and stabilized with Seppic Sepinov EMT 10 (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer) / Clariant Aristoflex AVC (Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer).

The oil phase is made of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – a synthetic triglyceride, supplied among others by Sasol as Miglyol 810 & 812 -, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate and Cetearyl Isononanoate – two fatty esters, Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)) and Hazel Seed Oil (Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil) – two natural fatty raw materials and Dimethicone – a non-volatile silicone oil.

The aqueous phase contains Alcohol, Glycerin, Symrise Hydrolite-5 (Pentylene Glycol) and Butylene Glycol.

The formula color is modified with a yellow dye (CI15985).

Preservative System

The formula is protected against microbiological growth with Potassium Sorbate and Sodium Benzoate, helped with Symrise Hydrolite-5 (Pentylene Glycol) and Disodium EDTA.

Clarins Lift-Fermeté Crème Riche Régénérante / Extra-Firming Body Cream

Formula Structure

O/W emulsion, emulsified with Seppic Montanov L (C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside (and) C14-22 Alcohols) / Seppic Montanov 68 (Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) / DSM Amphisol K (Potassium Cetyl Phosphate), thickened and stabilized with Lubrizol Pemulen (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) / Xanthan Gum.

The oil phase is made of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cognis Cetiol CC (Dicaprylyl Carbonate), Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)), Hazel Seed Oil (Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil), Pentaerythrityl Distearate – a fatty ester, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Jojoba oil (Simmondsa Chinensis (Jojoba)) and Dimethicone.

The aqueous phase contains Symrise Hydrolite-5 (Pentylene Glycol), Glycerin and Butylene Glycol.

Preservative System

The formula is protected against microbiological growth by Phenoxyethanol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Potassium Sorbate and Sodium Benzoate, helped with Symrise Hydrolite-5 (Pentylene Glycol).

The formula also contains a pH adjuster (Sodium Hydroxide) and an antioxidant (BHT).

Active Ingredients / Claims

Lift-Fermeté / Extra-Firming  is an anti-aging body range, that Clarins has built on the link between firmness, elasticity and youth : Clarins indeed states that due to pregnancy, variations in weight and age, body contours look older, due to a lost or a lack of elasticity and firmness. According to Clarins, this would be linked to the decrease of the quantity of Emilin-1, a protein participating among others in the organization of the derm fibers. More precisely, according to this article, Emilin-1 (Elastin Microfibrin Interface Located proteIN-1) belongs to the family of the Elastic Fibre Interface molecules. It is a 136 kDa glycoprotein localized at the elastine-microfibril interface.

To help skin recover its elasticity and firmness, the answer of Clarins is in the star ingredient of the range : its patented Lime Thyme (Thymus Citriodorus Flower/Leaf Extract) that prevents skin slackening and restores its elasticity by stimulating Emilin-1 synthesis (based on in-vitro studies on dermal human fibroblasts culture).

Other active ingredients are claimed on the Body Lotion and Body Cream formulas :

– An extract of Centella titrated at 95% in Asiaticoside : corresponds to the “Asiaticoside” in the ingredient lists. Could be supplied by XXX, it is claimed by Clarins to stimulate collagen production, protect dermal fibers from degradation by metalloproteinases, favor glycosaminoglycan synthesis

– An extract of Bocoa (Bocoa Prouacensis Extract), being exclusive to Clarins, claimed to stimulate collagen production. Clarins indeed owns a patent about a “Cosmetic composition for treatment against skin aging”, said composition containing a water-soluble Bocoa prouacensis extract, having an anti- collagenase and anti-radical efficiency. Bocoa is a tree from the Amozonian forest, belonging to the Caesalpiniaceae family, with a exceptional longevity and resistance. Cold infusion of Bocoa bark is traditionally used in Surinam as a treatment for malaria.

– An extract of Vu Sua (Chrysophyllum Cainito Fruit Extract) also named Caimito. Clarins owns a patent on “cosmetic composition comprinsing an extract of chrysophyllum cainito”, where this extract is claimed to inhibit protein glycation. It is moreover claimed in Clarins Herbarium to stimulate collagen production, protect skin cells from harmful free radicals and increase cellular energy.

Apart from these 4 ingredients, the formulas also contain :

– Trehalose : it is a natural disaccharide, with a high water retention capabilities. Hayashibara is a supplier of Trehalose. Specifically for skincare, Hayashibara explains that Trehalose is an effective moisturiser, since it protects skin fibroblast from dehydration due to its capacity to replace water in tissues.

– Oat Kernel Extract (Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract)

– Hazel Seed Oil (Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil)

– Menthyl PCA (only in the Lotion) : supplied by Givaudan/Quest under the tradename Questice, it is a slow release coolant with the added benefit of skin conditioning. The most common cooling agent used in cosmetic products is Menthol. Questice is actually a Menthol derivative, with skincare benefits : on the skin, Menthyl PCA is hydrolysed by the skin’s natural enzymes to produce menthol, giving an extended cooling sensation. Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), the natural moisturising factor (NMF), is also released during this process.

Conclusion

As usual, Clarins has worked its emulsions with the help of Seppic technologies : Montanov L and Sepinov EMT 10 in the lotion, Montanov L and Montanov 68 in the cream. Apart from their Seppic origins, the Montanov are sugar-based surfactants known to give very soft, smooth, aesthetic, and pleasant to apply emulsions. Clarins is known to design such kind of textures, and it is often due like here to the use of sugar derivative surfactants. Clarins designed two textures with explicite names to answer the needs of normal to dry skins.

Basically, these Lift-Fermeté / Extra-Firming formulas are anti-aging products for body, targeting the lost of elasticity and firmness to rejuvenate body shape. The concept of the range is built around a new target, Emilin-1, and a main star ingredient, Lime Thyme extract.

Without being a breakthrough, Lift Fermeté / Extra-Firming range is built on strong pilars, pleasant textures, innovative target and natural star ingredient, that could make it a new classical basic range among Clarins body products.

Ingredients

Clarins Lift-Fermeté Lait Fondant Régénérant / Extra-Firming Body Lotion

Clarins Lift-Fermeté Crème Riche Régénérante / Extra-Firming Body Cream