Clinique will introduce in May 2011 two new products targeting pores under the Clinique Pore Refining Solutions range.

This new range is made of two products, aimed at diminishing the appearance of pores :

Pore Refining Solutions Correcting Serum

Technology / Formula structure :

Emulsion based on Shin Etsu KF-6017 (PEG-10 Dimethicone – HLB 4.5), KF-6011 (PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone – HLB 14.5) and Croda Tween 20 (Polysorbate 20 – HLB 16.7)  surfactants. Due to the respective HLB of these surfactants, and their order and positions in the ingredient list, the emulsion is most probably a Water in Silicone (W/S) emulsion.

The aqueous phase is thickened with Clariant Aristoflex AVC (Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) and Seppic Simulgel 600 (Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (and) Polysorbate 80 (and) Isohexadecane).

The oil phase, mainly made of silicones, contains dimethicone (1^st position in the ingredient list) and a silicone elastomer : Polysilicone-11. Already seen in Clinique Laser Focus, very probably mixed with Dimethicone, it should be one of the blends sold by Grant Industry : Gransil DMG-2, Gransil DM-5, Gransil DM-5-LV, Gransil DMDM-25, Gransil DMG-20 or Gransil DMG-6. Polysilicone-11 improves speadability and gives to the formula a non-tacky, silky feel. Apart from these silicones, the oil phase of formula also contains lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin and coconut acid.

The aqueous phase contains alcohol, butylene glycol, glycerin and hexylene glycol. It also contains a conditioning ingredient – a quaternary ammonium (Di-C12-18 Alkyl Dimonium Chloride), sold by Kao Chemicals under the tradename Quartamin D2345P.

To improve the optical properties and the skinfeel of the formula, it contains two powder, Polymethyl Methacrylate and Silica powders. It also contains iron oxides to color the formula. Depending on their concentration, these oxides can or not give a color to the skin, and hide imperfections the same way a foundation does.

Preservative system :

The formula is protected against microbiological growth with Alcohol denaturated, Salicylic Acid and Phenoxyethanol, helped with Caprylyl Glycol and Disodium EDTA.

Active ingredients / Claims :

It is claimed to “instantly diminish the appearance of pores, while simultaneously helping to strengthen and tighten skin’s surface structure over time”. It contains a “Pore Resurfacing Complex” made of :

– Padina Pavonica extract (Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract) to support cell maturation, to prevent rough texture, weak skin barrier and large pores
– Laminaria Saccharina extract, Hydrolysed Soy Protein and Coconut Acid to balance oil production
– Salicylic Acid and Acetyl Glucosamine for a gentle desquamation.

Appart from this Complex, the formula also contains :

– Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
– Serenoa Serrulata (Saw Palmetto) Fruit Extract
– Siegesbeckia Orientalis (St Paul’s Wort) Extract : already seen in Clinique Laser Focus Wrinkle UV Damage Corrector, it is a plant originated from Madagascar, marketed as “Siegesbeckia” by Sederma, claimed as having anti-inflammatory properties and protecting collagen
– Salvia Sclarea (Clary) Extract : Estée Lauder owns a patent # US20030072777 (that do not protect the Clinique Pore Refining Solution Serum) describing Sclareol, a sclareolide, as an important bioactive diterpene obtained from clary sage. The patent states that Clary sage extract is believed to contain about 70 percent sclareol and to function as an effective desquamation agent when treating acne.
– Sea Whip Extract : very probably corresponding to the same ingredient already present in Clinique Laser, an extract of pseudopterogorgia elisabethae, supplied by the Lipo Chemicals Company, under the tradename Gorgonian Extract CG, exhibiting an anti-inflammatory activity
– Caffeine
– Pantethine : dimeric form of Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid)
– Algae Extract
– Tetrahexydecyl Ascorbate : very probably corresponding to Barnet’s BVOSC, this active ingredient is presented as a stable oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, and claimed to have the following properties : anti-oxidant, UV protection, whitening, MMP inhibition, DNA protection, collagen synthesis and collagen protection.
– Tocopheryl Acetate
– Sodium Hyaluronate
– Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid : also known as the acronym NDGA, it is an antioxidant molecule. supplied by BASF as Scavenol de BASF Engelhard
– Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate : supplied by Senju under the tradename CME, it is a molecule made of Vitamin C and Vitamin E linked with a maleic bridge. It is liposoluble (soluble in oil), which is claimed to help the ingredient penetrate into the skin. It is then hydrolysed and divided into Vitamin C and Vitamin E due to its sensitivity to hydrolysis.

Conclusion :

With this new serum, Clinique launches an emulsion based on a recent technologies  : silicone crosspolymers and silicon based surfactants. These technologies are largely used in Lauder’s skincare products, like in Idealist serum or Perfectionist serum and allows to develop stable emulsions with very velvety touch and optical properties. It is a smart choice for oily skins confronted with shiny skin and visible pores.

The active ingredients selected to be starified as the “Pore Resurfacing Complex” are selected to act on the visibility of pores : the rough texture of skin, the oil production and the desquamation.

Pore Refining Solutions Instant Perfector

This formula comes to replace Clinique’s Pore Minimizer Instant Perfector, claimed to have an immediate and long-term efficiency on diminishing pore size. It contains a “smart technology” made of Hydrolysed Soy Protein and Coconut Acid to balance oil production. It also contains Vitamin E and Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory efficiency.

The texture is made of cross-linked silicone polymers associated to powders (“spherical optical diffusers and soft focus materials”) to mattify and smooth skin surface while absorbing excess oil. It is available in three tints.

It is recommended to be used under or over foundation, on the whole face of just in the T-zone, and can be reapplied as needed throughout the day for touch-ups.

Ingredients

Pore Refining Solutions Correcting Serum