Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion +

0
211
Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion +

Clinique is renovating its iconic “DDML” in a new improved version this July 2013.

After the renovation of the Estée Lauder Advance Night Repair serum, Estée Lauder, the  mother company of Clinique, is now upgrading the Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion, the Step 3 of the Clinique “3-Step Skincare System” routine.

Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion +

Conclusion

The new DDML + is an evolution of the DDML formula, not a revolution. It is introducing for the first time a “technical” complex of active ingredients (the “Barrier Strengthening Complex”), associated with new yet very classic and established moisturizing agents (Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid and Urea). This will allow Clinique to have more “biological” arguments on their DDML formula. It was indeed until now a very basic emulsion containing only Propylene Glycol as moisturizer, and Mineral Oil / Petroleum Jelly and Sesame oil as emollient oils. This renovation is certainly a good one, which will satify DDML addicts as the structure of the formula remains the same, but which will also be able to attract new consumers with new claims and new active ingredients.

Communication and Claims

The DDML+ formula is claimed to double the moisturisation levels without an extra drop of oil, and improve skin’s barrier-strength by +54% in eight weeks – all without changing the lotion’s texture.

The formula is claimed

– to providing barrier strength, thanks to a new “Barrier Strengthening Complex” made of sunflower seed cake, barley extract and cucumber fruit

– boost moisturising efficiency with hyaluronic acid, glycerin and urea

Ingredient list

Let’s have a look to the evolutions of the DDML formula. Here are listed below :

– the original formula of the DDML as it was launched in 1968

 

Water/Aqua/Eau
Mineral Oil/Paraffinum Liquidum/Huile Minérale
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Oil
Propylene Glycol
TEA-Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Lanolin Alcohol
Petrolatum
Methylparaben
Propylparaben
Yellow 5 (CI 19140)
Yellow 6 (CI 15985)
Red 33 (CI 17200)

– the formula of DDML until June 2013

 

Water/Aqua/Eau
Mineral Oil/Paraffinum Liquidum/Huile Minérale
Propylene Glycol
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Oil
Stearic Acid
Glyceryl Stearate
Petrolatum
Lanolin Alcohol
Triethanolamine
Trisodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Yellow 5 (CI 19140)
Yellow 6 (CI 15985)
Red 33 (CI 17200)

– the new DDML+ formula since June 2013

 

Water/Aqua/Eau
Mineral Oil/Paraffinum Liquidum/Huile Minérale
Glycerin
Petrolatum
Stearic Acid
Glyceryl Stearate
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Oil
Urea
Lanolin Alcohol
Triethanolamine
Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract/Extrait d’Orge
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake
Propylene Glycol Dicaprate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Butylene Glycol
Pentylene Glycol
Trisodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Yellow 6 (CI 15985)
Yellow 5 (CI 19140)
Red 33 (CI 17200)

Formula Structure

The structure of the DDML formula has not changed since its creation : it is a very basic O/W emulsion built around two surfactants : Glyceryl Stearate and Triethanolamine Stearate (mix of Stearic Acid and Triethanolamine which chemically react together in a saponification reaction to form a soap, Triethanolamine Stearate or TEA-Stearate). The formula does not contain any polymeric thickener.

The oil phase, as claimed by Clinique, has not changed : it is a mix of Mineral Oil, Petroleum Jelly (Petrolatum), Sesame Oil and Lanolin Alcohol.

The dyes used to give the characteristic yellow color to DDML have not been changed neither, associating Yellow 5, Yellow 6 and Red 33.

The DDML formula evolved on the following aspects :

– Active Ingredients : only the latest evolution of the DDML contains active ingredients as understood by Marketing people. They are forming the new “Barrier Strengthening Complex”, and are Barley extract, the Cucumber extract and the Sunflower extract.

– Moisturizing agents : the initial formula and its first evolution were initially containing only Propylene Glycol as emollient / plasticizer / glycol. The latest evolution DDML + contains now an updated version of Propylene Glycol : Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, and Glycerin, Urea and Hyaluronic Acid, all well known for their moisturizing properties. Another glycol (Butylene Glycol) is also listed in the Ingredient List.

– Preservative system : following consumer expectations, the DDML formula has been first updated in a “paraben-free” version, switching from Methylparaben and Propylparaben to Phenoxyethanol helped with Trisodium EDTA. In the latest evolution, the preservative system has been reinforced, associating Phenoxyethanol and Trisodium EDTA to Pentylene Glycol.

[Source]

LEAVE A REPLY

Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here