Author Archives: Global Cosmetics News - Daily cosmetics industry news

LG Household & Health Care to launch customized skin care brand

A new attempt of customized skincare products, a trend to follow closely.

 

LG Household & Health Care to launch customized skin care brand

LG Household & Health Care is gearing up to launch Korea’s first customized skin care brand, according to a report published by Pulse News.

ReMede by CNP will tailor products according to customers’skin types. The brand will be based at a new store in western Seoul. Shoppers will be able to book one-on-one consultations to design their personalized serum, priced at approximately KRW90,000.

Each 50ml serum will be made from a choice of three bases formulated for skin control, rebalancing or moisture boosting and two ampoules, which will bring additional skin care benefits such as anti-aging and skin whitening.

Source : Global Cosmetics News – Daily cosmetics industry news

 

 

Nivea Cellular Anti-Age Volume Filling Pearls

Nivea extended in August 2016 its Nivea Cellular range, cascading its pearl technology in a new anti-aging serum : Nivea Cellular Anti-Age Volume Filling Pearls.

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GLYCERIN (and) GLYCERYL ACRYLATE/ACRYLIC ACID COPOLYMER (and) PROPYLENE GLYCOL (and) PVM/MA COPOLYMER

This association of ingredients corresponds to Ashland Lubrajel Oil.

According to Ashland, Lubrajel hydrogels are hydrophilic and consist of water, humectants and a polymer as a thickening agent. The solvent and humectant molecules are bound to the polymeric network, resulting in a structured system with increased viscosity.

Lubrajels are rheology modifiers. Ashland offers several versions, with varying viscosities, from the highly viscous Lubrajel DV hydrogel used in emulsion stabilization and suspension of compatible materials such as titanium dioxide to Lubrajel Oil hydrogel, an oil-like, low viscosity gel. They are also effective at stabilizing emulsions in various personal care applications.

Lubrajel Oil (Glycerin (and) Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer (and) PVM/MA Copolymer) is water-soluble clear gel. According to Ashland, “it is an emollient matrix that imparts excellent lubricity and provides skin care products with superb spreadability”. It is used for moisturization and emulsion stabilization.

ACRYLIC ACID/VP CROSSPOLYMER

Acrylic Acid/VP Crosspolymer is a thickener supplied by Ashland under the tradename UltraThix™ P-100 polymer. It is a cross-linked copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone (VP) and acrylic acid.

Acrylic Acid/VP Copolymer

It is claimed by Ashland to be a multi-benefit, patented rheology modifier that delivers an array of benefits, such as shear-thinning rheological properties with yield value and positive sensory perception.

According to Ashland, it offers emulsion stabilization, reduces tack and improves aesthetics of hydroalcoholic sprays, and enhances skin feel properties.

CHONDRUS CRISPUS POWDER – CARRAGEENAN

Chondrus crispus—commonly called Irish moss or carrageen moss (Irish carraigín, “little rock”)—is a species of red algae which grows abundantly along the rocky parts of the Atlantic coast of Europe and North America. Chondrus crispus is an industrial source of carrageenan.

Chondrus Crispus

Carrageenans are a family of linear sulphated polysaccharides. All carrageenans are high-molecular-weight polysaccharides made up of repeating galactose units and 3,6 anhydrogalactose (3,6-AG), both sulfated and nonsulfated. The units are joined by alternating α-1,3 and β-1,4 glycosidic linkages. There are three main varieties of carrageenan, which differ in their degree of sulphation.

Carrageenan

As explained by CP Kelco about its range on Carrageenan thickeners for personal care, by using the appropriate carrageenan product, the formulator can create textures ranging from free-flowing liquids to solid gels. Carrageenan products can be used to create rheological profiles ranging from free-flowing liquids to thixotropic liquid gels and self-supporting solid gels with a wide range of textures, setting temperatures and melting temperatures. With a single carrageenan product, a range of viscosities and gel strengths can be obtained by adjusting other ingredients in the formulation.

  • Kappa carrageenan forms firm gels in the presence of ions.
  • Iota carrageenan forms elastic gels and thixotropic fluids in the presence of ions.
  • Lambda carrageenan forms viscous, non-gelling solutions.

DIMETHICONOL

Dimethiconol is a non volatile, high viscosity, hydroxy-terminated polydimethylsiloxane gum. To facilitate its use, it is usually offered by supplier as a blend with a liquid silicone oil (e.g. Dimethicone or Cyclopentasiloxane).

Dimethiconol

Xiameter PMX 1503 from Dow Corning is a blend of Dimethicone and Dimethiconol. It is claimed to be film forming and non occlusive, with long-lasting, wash-off resistant benefits. It is mainly use in skincare as it imparts a silky, lubricious feel.

1-METHYLHYDANTOIN-2-IMIDE

Also known as Creatinine, it is a breakdown product of phosphate creatine in muscles. Chemically, it is an amino acid derivative, cyclic derivative of Creatine.

Creatinine

In cosmetics, it is sold by Evonik under the tradename Tego Cosmo C250. Evonik claims the following properties for Tego Cosmo C250 :

  • Skin brightening : it has been demonstrated to inhibit tyrosinase activity in melanocytes.
  • Skin conditioner
  • pH-regulating

CREATINE

Creatine is an amino-acid derivative, naturally occuring in vertebrates, mainly present in muscles and brain. It is involved in the energy metabolism, helping to supply all cells in energy, mainly muscle cells.

Creatine

It is supplied among others by Evonik under the tradename Tego Cosmo C 100. Evonik claims the following skin care benefits :

  • Revitalization of cell energy metabolism
  • Supports skin protection
  • Moisturizer

Evonik explains as follows the necessity of a well-working cells energy metabolism : “the physiological fatigue of skin evidenced by the early signes of aging is caused by stress and environmental influences. The consequence is a decrease of the energy amount stored in the celles followed by a suppressed capability to synthesize proteins such as collagen, elastin and keratin. Additionnally, cells experience increased oxidative stress as they age, increasing the amount of energy required for internal defenses. So a well-working energy metabolism is essential for skin cells vitality”.

 

Polyols and Diols

Polyols are molecules containing several alcohol functions (-OH) on their molecules, Diols contain 2 alcohol functions (-OH).

They are all known to help in the protection of cosmetic formulas against microbiological development and pollution. They work by promoting the penetration of preservatives into bacterial cell walls. They are not listed as preservatives in cosmetic regulations, so cannot be said “preservatives”. Their suppliers must claim another main property, otherwise cosmetic manufacturers would be blamed to use illegal preservatives.

The fact that they are not listed as preservatives is also a way for cosmetic manufacturer to claim “preservative free” : if a formula is only protected against microbiological organism thanks to polyols / diols, it indeed does not contain preservatives, in the sense of the law. This is a very common trick in the industry.

This family of molecule contains :

POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE

Silicone derivative, Polymethylsilsequioxane is a silicone resin spherical powder. Momentive Performance Materials is one of the suppliers of this ingredient, under the tradename Tospearls.

Tospearls are described as a series of mono-dispersed, micro-fine spherical cross-linked siloxane particles.

Here below microscopic magnification (x 1000) and particle size distribution of 2 grades of Tospearl :

Tospearl (Polymethylsilsesquioxane)- microscopic pictures

Their key benefits are :

  • Soft, smooth and dry feel
  • Excellent lubricity,
  • Prevention of powder agglomeration
  • Soft focus effect
  • Lessen the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
  • Sebum absorption