Usually used in cosmetic industry in slimming and eye formulas, it has basically skin conditionning properties : it is known to enhance the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness
Sodium hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is polysaccharide naturally found in the body, functionning as a tissue lubricant. It is often used as a moisturizer due to its capacity to hold water.
Sold by Evonik under the tradename Ceramide III, it is claimed to “support the renewal of the skin’s natural protective layer and form an effective barrier against moisture loss. These human skin-identical molecules are therefore particularly suitable for long term protection and repair of sensitive and dry skin.”
Ceramide NP benefits in skincare are :
- Reinforces the natural lipid barrier of dry and ageing skin
- Improves long term moisturization and protects the skin from external influences
- Repairs and protects damaged hair (mechanical properties, liveliness, combability, shine)
- Human-skin identical molecule
- Natural product with high purity
- Active at low concentrations
Squalane, brings nutrition to skincares, without greasy feel.
Actually, skin produces Squalene. Squalane is the saturated form of squalane. Squalane and squalene have the same interesting properties on the skin (moisturizer), but Squalane is easier to formulate since less susceptible to be oxidized.
Could correspond to BiotechMarine Phlorogine. As described in this patent, “Phlorogine is known as anti-seborrhoeic agent that can regulate the activity of sebaceous glands”
Sigesbeckia Orientalis (St. Paul’s Wort) Extract : sold by Sederma under the tradename Siegesbeckia™ PH. It is claimed to be titrated in Darutoside, a healing, anti-inflammatory active ingredient. It helps fight against cutaneous inflammatory processes. It is recommended to be used in soothing emulsions and gels.
Could be Shin Etsu KSG-16 or Dow Corning Dow Corning® 3901 Liquid Satin Blend. With their 3-dimensional crosslinked structure, these fine particles impart a smooth, silky feel and produce a matting effect. They have good swelling characteristics in silicone fluids and improve the stability of personal care products.
Cetacene (Vevy) or Unitwix (United Guardians). Emollient, protective, diffusive agent. It assures stability, homogenicity, dispersiveness.
It is claimed to be a thickener for petroleum oils, petrolatum, fatty alcohols, liquid waxes, etc., besides thickening the above liquids it confers its own characteristic dry lubrication on the final product. Excellent lubricants for use on the body.
Polymer specific to Estée Lauder, patented US20160030328, by Estée Lauder (ELC Management) and Shin Etsu, claimed as a water-absorbing polymer obtained from (A) a phosphate-containing (meth)acrylic monomer and/or a salt thereof, (B) a monomer having one (meth)acrylic group within the molecule and/or a salt thereof other than component (A), and (C) an organopolysiloxane having a (meth)acrylic group at both ends and related compositions.
This polymer is claimed to provide a cosmetic composition which exerts a high thickening effect in aqueous solvents, eliminates poor spreading, moist and sticky feels, and is in paste form having thixotropy and giving a dry light feel. This polymer solves the following issue : create a film on skin that blurs skin defects such as lines, wrinkles, or minor skin imperfections. In addition to provide aesthetically pleasing thickening properties, when the same polymers provide other benefits such as optically improving the appearance of the skin surface this provides a further advantage.
Also patented by Estée Lauder (US9387161) as used to make compositions for reducing pore size, and moisturizing and/or blurring appearance of defects on keratin surfaces