New in Stores

Nivea Men Beard Oil

Simultaneously to L’Oréal launching its Barber Club range dedicated to men with beard, Nivea is launching a Beard Oil.

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L’Oréal Paris Men Expert Barber Club

L’Oréal Paris is (finally) launching a men grooming range dedicated to beard under its skincare range for men “Men Expert”.

“Finally”, because wearing beard is such a huge trend in men fashion, at least in Western Europe, that it is surprising that L’Oréal have not done it before…

Transversally to the range, L’Oreal claims “no silicone, no dyes, no ingredient from animal origin”, and supports the Movember foundation for men’s health.

The range is build around 3 steps, and 4 formulas, all designed to help men to take care of their beards. The technologies behind are known, with some transfer from the hair category (conditioning agents, caring oil).

– Step 1 : Cleanse, with a 3 in 1 Cleanser – Beard, Face and Hair.

The formula is a pearly (Glycol Distearate as pearlizing agent) foaming gel built on Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Covo-Betaine. It contains a quaternary guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride), a conditioning agent, positioned in the first ingredients of the ingredient list. This ingredient helps to support the claims “softens beard” and “detangle hair”. The formula also contains Menthol,  ingredient providing a cool sensation on skin.

– Step 2 : Soften, with 2 formulas :

– Oil for Long Beard & Face :

The formula is an anhydrous oil made mainly of 3 liquid oils : Isopropyl Palmitate (a light fatty ester), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (a synthetic triglyceride, with the same feel as natural oil while not being sensitive to oxidation) and Polybutene (synthetic apolar hydrocarbon compound).

– Care for Short Beard & Face

This formula is contains Croda Cithrol DPHS as main surfactant (PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate). Cithrol DPHS is supposed to help to make W/O emulsions. But the formula does not contain an oil phase. It looks rather like a gel where the stabilizing/thickening polymer is Acrylate/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (e.g. Pemulen), with several ingredients added for feel and touch : Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane (a water-soluble silicone wax), sodium hyaluronate.

– Step 3 : Give Style with a Styling Cream Hair & Beard

The formula is an emulsion with Croda Arlacel 165 (PEG-100 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate) as emulsifiers, Cetearyl Alcohol as co-emulsifier, and Dow’s Aculyn 44 (PEG-150/Decyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer). The oil phase is made of Mineral Oil, Microcristalline Wax and Phenyl Trimethicone. The formula contains VP/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer (e.g. Ashland Copolymer 968) as hair grooming and conditioning.

L’Oréal Age Perfect Rosy Glow Mask

L’Oreal is extending its Age Perfect range with a new product, Age perfect Rosy Glow Mask, a cream-mask sold in a jar.
From a technical point of view, this formula is a emulsified gel, based on 2 polymers (Clariant Hostacerin AMPS – Ammonium Polyacryloylsimethyl Taurate, exclusive to L’Oreal as patented, and Xanthan Gum). This blend allows to suspend and stabilized dispersed oil drops, without using surfactants.

The oil phase is mainly made of silicone oil (Dimethicone) and fatty ester (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate). Lower in the INCI, so probably at a concentration below 1%, the formula contains plenty of natural oils (Rosemary Leaf Oil, Macadamia Seed Oil, Lavender Oil,…).

The formula is protected against microbiological development by Alcohol (2nd in the INCI list), Phenoxyethanol and Caprylyl Glycol.

Interesting texture of surfactant-free emulsified gel. It is interesting to see Alcohol so high in a mask formula. Indeed, mask are more difficult to formulate than creams from a safety point of view : they are appied as thick layers on skin and left-on for several minutes. Preservatives and other ingredients can cause tongling if not carefully selected. If successfully formulated, Alcohol here in this formula probably greatly participate to improve skin glow (due to its refreshing effect).


Unilever launches Dove DermaCare Scalp anti-dandruff shampoos

New battle about to start between Unilever and P&G about to start on anti-dandruff shampoos : Unilever is launching these days the new Dove DermaCare Scalp collection made of 6 variants in February 2017.
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Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Mask-In-Oil

Another addition in February 2017 to the iconic Estée Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair range : a Recovery Mask-In-Oil, in the current trend coming from Asia of night masks.

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Estée Lauder’s new Lab Series Maxellence range

Estée Lauder’s Lab Series brand, dedicated to men, is launching in January 2017 a new very premium range of 2 products : Maxellence Dual Concentrate serum and The Singular Cream.
Lab Series Maxellence

NEW YORK —Lab Series is betting on Pietro Boselli’s 1.7 million Instagram followers to help generate buzz — and hopefully sales.

Lab Series named electrical engineering Ph.D.-turned-model and social media star as its new brand ambassador and global face of its Maxellence collection. The line, which bowed early this month, includes a Dual Concentrate serum, $225, and The Singular Cream, $160.

One of the smaller brands in the Estée Lauder stable — with sales said to be less than $100 million — Lab Series spent the past year working with influencers in varying capacities as a mean’s to attract a younger audience and tap into a male consumer more apt to spend on prestige skin care than ever.

“We know that Millennial men are very different than Baby Boomers, and we have information that shows the younger generation is a lot more open to using skin care than the older generation. Just from a demographic shift, we think this category has enormous potential for growth,” Valdes said.

Part of Lab Series’ high-end Max LS line, Maxellence contains the two most premium products the brand has brought to market in its 30 years. The Dual Concentrate serum (it has a dual chamber delivery system that dispenses a white and black formula) and a Singular Cream, both were formulated with space technology and ingredients derived from a meteorite, the Achondrite asteroid. The other key ingredient is Micro-Grav Ferment, a yeast extract perfected in a bioreactor, that was originally intended for use in space.

The serum and cream are twice as expensive as moisturizer from the existing Max LS collection, and if you compare it to Pro LS, Lab Series’ entry level group, Maxellence is about triple the price.

Source : WWD

Temptu Air – handheld airbrush makeup device

Always in search of innovative products to put on its shelves, Sephora is about to start the distribution of Temptu Air in France

Temptu Air is a handheld airbrush makeup device, claiming to help achieving the results of a professional makeup artist at home, and quperior coverage with less makeup.

Temptu Air system is made of :

– a portable electric rechargeable appliance

– makeup (foundation, blush, highlighter and bronzer) delivered through interchangeable “Airpods”, offered in different shades.

The device allows a customizable coverage, with a three-speed airflow.

Temptu, Inc. owns 4 worldwide patent applications :





2013’s patent is very probably the one that describes the current technology used on Temptu device, taking advantage of ultrasonic vibrations to deliver a spray of a fluid.

[Source : Femme Actuelle Oct. 2016,]

L’Oréal Paris Age Expertise

L’Oréal has launched in November 2015 in Aldi (a european network of low cost supermarkets) and March 2016 everywhere else a new range of 3 skincare creams in jars under then brand “Age Expertise”.

This range, with a lower price point than other L’Oreal Paris face cares, is very probably an answer to the success of low cost networks. Big brands are not prone to sell their products in such shops as they cannot manage as well their image as in traditional ones, and as costs are key. They also need to compete to the own skincare brand of low cost networks, like Cien, the skincare brand of Lidl, who started in 2016 to advertise on TV on their Q10 anti-wrinkle.

Usually in L’Oreal Paris line-up, products are organized by concerns (glow, wrinkles, firmness,…), and products under the same range are offered as a routine (cleansers, face care, eye care). This time, under the Age Expertise range, products are organized by age.

When comparing carefully these 3 products to the exisiting L’Oreal Paris creams, the 35+ looks like the Wrinkle Decrease / Collagen Filler Cream, the 45+ like the Revitalift Cream, and the 55+ like the Age Perfect Cream, but to be confirmed looking carefully at the INCI lists.

– 35+ :

Anti-wrinkle moisturizer for women between 35 and 45, with collagene as star ingredient

– 45+

Intensive anti-wrinkle care, for womnbetween 45 and 55, with “retino peptides” as star ingredient

– 55+

Redensifying anti-wrinkle care for women between 55 and 65, with calcium as star ingredient.