Tag Archives: active ingredient


Silybum Marianum Seed Oil is an oil extracted from the seeds of Lady Thistle (Chardon-Marie in French).

Silybum Marianum - Lady Thistle

The oil contains Silymarin, a complex mixture of polyphenolic molecules, including Silibinin, the major active constituent of this mixture. It exhibits a number of pharmacological effects, particularly in the liver.

According to one of its suppliers Aldivia, Silymarine is known for its hepatoprotective effect: it acts on the cell membrane, making it difficult for toxins to pass into the cell. In addition, silymarine appears to slow down the lipid peroxidation process, giving a membrane stabilizing effect. Lady thistle oil can be used in all finished cosmetic products. It is used particularly in body and hair care products: creams for damaged and dull skin, massage oils and shampoos for thin and fragile hair.


Extract of a red algae, supplied by several suppliers including Silab under the tradename Deglysome or BiotechMarine (part of Seppic) under the tradename Biorestorer.

Silab Deglysome is claimed to protect the skin from deleterious damages caused by cellular and tissular glycation, being rich in galactans from Hypnea musciformis algae. Neutralizing the AGEs, this active ingredient maintains the cytoskeleton through the vimentin organization and cell metabolism. Moreover, DEGLYSOME® preserves the matrix integrity by activating the formation of collagen and fibrillin networks. Thanks to its targeted actions, DEGLYSOME® reinforces the tissue functionality and allows the skin to keep its elasticity and to look younger. This active is thus recommended in all firming skin care products.

BiotechMarine Biorestorer is a blend of Hypnea musciformis extract, Water and Butylene glycol. BIORESTORER® by BiotechMarine (SEPPIC) acts as a conditioning, restructuring and film forming agent. It is obtained from seaweed extract. BIORESTORER® reconstitutes protective film through galactan sulfate. Moreover, it provides cuticle smoothening and brightness to hair. BIORESTORER® finds application in formulating dry hair-care products.

Both ingredients are film former thanks to its richness in galactans.


Sold by Evonik under the tradename Ceramide III, it is claimed to “support the renewal of the skin’s natural protective layer and form an effective barrier against moisture loss. These human skin-identical molecules are therefore particularly suitable for long term protection and repair of sensitive and dry skin.”

Chemically, it is a Phytosphingosine (a sphingolipid) backbone acylated with a saturated fatty acid (stearic acid). More details here on what is a Ceramide.

Ceramide NP benefits in skincare are :

  • Reinforces the natural lipid barrier of dry and ageing skin
  • Improves long term moisturization and protects the skin from external influences
  • Repairs and protects damaged hair (mechanical properties, liveliness, combability, shine)
  • Human-skin identical molecule
  • Natural product with high purity
  • Active at low concentrations