Tag Archives: Skincare

XYLITYLGLUCOSIDE (and) ANHYDROXYLITOL (and) XYLITOL – Seppic Aquaxyl

The association of Xylitylglucoside / Anhydroxylitol / Xylitol is sold by Seppic under the tradename Aquaxyl. It is patented by Seppic, and claimed to “reinforce the synthesis of essential lipids and proteins involved in the organisation of the corneus layer”. This leaded Seppic to emphasize the 2 following benefits of its active ingredient in moisturization :

  • it “increases reserves and circulation of water” in skin dermis / epidermis
  • it “reinforces skin barrieres” for “anti-dehydration power” in epidermis

These benefits are claimed by Seppic to be visible within 8 and 24 hours.

Aquaxyl is made from glucose and xylitol from vegetable origin.

Seppic summarizes the benefits of its ingredients as “AQUAXYL™ offers the 3D hydration hydraconcept for circulation of moisture throughout all skin layers and boosting of hyaluronic acid. The skin barrier is reinforced in 24 hours by limiting water loss. Results are softer smoother skin in 28 days with normal desquamation and smoothing of fine lines. Also effective for hair moisturization and foaming formula sensory profile.”

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE

Natural oils are generally triglycerides, ie ester derived from glycerol and three fatty acids. Triglycerides are the main constituents of body fat in humans and other animals, as well as vegetable fat. They have a very good compatibility with human skin.

Naturally occuring triglycerides are generally unsaturated, ie one or several Carbon / Carbon bonds are double bonds. For example, the triglycerides of the olive oil are made of two radicals of oleic acid and one of palmitic acid attached to glycerol. Oleic acid has one Carbon/Carbon double bond.

Below, an example of triglyceride with double bonds on the fatty chaines.

Example of Triglyceride

These double bonds are sensitive to oxidation, which turns natural triglycerides rancid. As a consequence, the use of natural triglycerides in cosmetic needs to be balanced with their tendancy to turn rancid, with a typical malodor associated. The solution is often to add anti-oxidants to cosmetic formulations with natural fats, to prevent oxidation and rancid odor.

Another option, to keep the benefits of natural oils (skin feel, emolliency), without the drawback of oxidation, is to go with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. This ingredient is a synthetic triglyceride from natural origin (generally Coconut and Palm). This means that the fatty chains and glycerine can be from natural origin, and a chemical reaction is made (esterification) to synthesize the triglyceride. The fatty chains come from Caprylic Acid and Capric Acid, both saturated (ie without double bonds), so resistant to oxidation.

Molecule of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride :

Example of Triglyceride

Croda is one of the suppliers of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, under the tradename Crodamol GTCC. It is described as a “fully saturated emollient triester, recommended as an alternative for mineral or vegetable oils in a wide variety of personal care and pharmaceutical applications. Fully saturated triglyceride. Light emollient with good lubricity. Excellent solvent for chemical sunscreens and wetting agent for physical sunscreens.”

LG Household & Health Care to launch customized skin care brand

A new attempt of customized skincare products, a trend to follow closely.

 

LG Household & Health Care to launch customized skin care brand

LG Household & Health Care is gearing up to launch Korea’s first customized skin care brand, according to a report published by Pulse News.

ReMede by CNP will tailor products according to customers’skin types. The brand will be based at a new store in western Seoul. Shoppers will be able to book one-on-one consultations to design their personalized serum, priced at approximately KRW90,000.

Each 50ml serum will be made from a choice of three bases formulated for skin control, rebalancing or moisture boosting and two ampoules, which will bring additional skin care benefits such as anti-aging and skin whitening.

Source : Global Cosmetics News – Daily cosmetics industry news

 

 

DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER

High molecular weight silicone elastomer, that imparts a very velvety feel to skincare products.

One of its supplier, Dow Corning, claims the below benefit for Dimethicone Crosspolymer :

– Contributes a silky, smooth feel in formulations
– Long-lasting skin feel
– Provides thickening in anhydrous and w/o emulsion formulations
– Can be used in either hot or cold processes
This elastomer is supplied among others by Dow Corning as different blend with linear or cyclic silicones :
DC 9041 (Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer)
DC 9040 and DC 9045 (Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer)

TREHALOSE

Trehalose : it is a natural disaccharide, with a high water retention capabilities. Hayashibara is a supplier of Trehalose. Specifically for skincare, Hayashibara explains that Trehalose is an effective moisturizer, since it protects skin fibroblast from dehydration due to its capacity to replace water in tissues.

TOCOPHERYL ACETATE

Tocopheryl Acetate is a Vitamin E derivative. It is metabolized on the skin to release Tocopherol, the chemical name of Vitamin E. Vitamin E is a naturally occuring lipophilic antioxidant,

SODIUM HYALURONATE

Sodium hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is polysaccharide naturally found in the body, functionning as a tissue lubricant. It is often used as a moisturizer due to its capacity to hold water.