Tag Archives: Skincare

CERAMIDE NP

Sold by Evonik under the tradename Ceramide III, it is claimed to “support the renewal of the skin’s natural protective layer and form an effective barrier against moisture loss. These human skin-identical molecules are therefore particularly suitable for long term protection and repair of sensitive and dry skin.”

Chemically, it is a Phytosphingosine (a sphingolipid) backbone acylated with a saturated fatty acid (stearic acid). More details here on what is a Ceramide.

Ceramide NP benefits in skincare are :

  • Reinforces the natural lipid barrier of dry and ageing skin
  • Improves long term moisturization and protects the skin from external influences
  • Repairs and protects damaged hair (mechanical properties, liveliness, combability, shine)
  • Human-skin identical molecule
  • Natural product with high purity
  • Active at low concentrations

http://glenncorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/Ceramide-III.-TDS.-01.01.12.pdf

http://corporate.evonik.com/en/products/search-products/pages/product-details.aspx?pid=16714&pfsearch=c&pfcmd=letter&backUrl=http%253a%252f%252fcorporate.evonik.com%252fen%252fproducts%252fsearch-products%252fpages%252fproduct-details.aspx%253fpid%253d31211%2526pfsearch%253dc%2526pfcmd%253dletter

 

SQUALANE

Squalane, brings nutrition to skincares, without greasy feel.

Actually, skin produces Squalene. Squalane is the saturated form of squalane. Squalane and squalene have the same interesting properties on the skin (moisturizer), but Squalane is easier to formulate since less susceptible to be oxidized.

ACETYLATED GLYCOL STEARATE

Cetacene (Vevy) or Unitwix (United Guardians). Emollient, protective, diffusive agent. It assures stability, homogenicity, dispersiveness.

It is claimed to be a thickener for petroleum oils, petrolatum, fatty alcohols, liquid waxes, etc., besides thickening the above liquids it confers its own characteristic dry lubrication on the final product. Excellent lubricants for use on the body.

ALCALIGENES POLYSACCHARIDES

Water gelling agent made from a Gram-negative bacteria, similar to xanthan gum.

Polysaccharides produced by a bacterial culture of alcaligenes latus

Classified for Cosmetic use as : VISCOSITY CONTROLLING SKIN CONDITIONING HUMECTANT EMULSION STABILISING EMOLLIENT

According to this article, made by Hakuto, the supplier of Alcaligenes Polysaccharide for cosmetic applications :
Alcaligenes latus was used to produce a new poly-sacchardide bioabsorbent that can absorb water at more than 1,000 times its own weight, approximately 5 times greater than that of currently used commercially available synthetic high polymer absorbents. In addition, its water absorption capacity in the presence of NaCl was high when compared to synthetic polymers, with its moisture retention capacity in dry environments also found to be superior. This bioabsorbent is a polysaccharide.
Alcaligenes Polysaccharides are manufactured by Hakuto under the tradename “Alcasealan“, and probably distributed in Europe by Nagase. It is described as a “natural polysaccharides produced from fermentation. The polymer chain of Alcasealan forms a three-dimension network to hold free water as well as binding it. This 3D network has a unique characteristic which forms a moisturising film on the skin with unique lightweight texture. Alcasealan is widely used as emulsion and dispersion stabiliser; it also helps to suspense powders and glitters in cosmetics formulations.
Hakuto owns a patent protecting an emulsion based on Alcasealan.