Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex

Among its famous serums, Estée Lauder has updated its classical Advanced Night Repair in October 2009.

Technology / Formula structure :

Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex

Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex

Light O/W emulsion based on the following surfactants : Oleth-3 Phosphate / Oleth-3 / Oleth-5 / Choleth-24 (and) Ceteth-24 (sold by Lubrizol as Solulan C24) , thickened and stabilized with very classical Carbomer and Xanthan Gum. Solulan C24 or equivalent raw material is claimed to prevent excessive viscosity build up in fluid emulsions, which fits with the texture of Advanced Night Repair. It is also claimed to provide a waxy after-feel, which can be perceived by the user as nutrition.

Apart from the active ingredients, the aqueous phase contains PEG-75, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26 and Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane. Cosmetic creams usually use Glycerin as the main moisturizing agent. Surprisingly, Advanced Night Repair does not contain any glycerin, but these 5 ingredients. PEG-75 and Butylene Glycol are usual moisturizing additives in emulsions : they are less efficient than glycerin, but with a better cosmeticity (less sticky). Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26 and Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane are not seen as often in cosmetic formulations :

- Methyl Gluceth-20 is sold by Lubrizol as Glucam E20. It is a glucose derivative, and is claimed to retard excess water-loss and improve skin after-feel.

- Glycereth-26 is sold by Croda as Volpo G26. It as a surface-active efficiency, but its main functions are claimed as humectant and moisturizer.

- Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane is sold by Dow Corning as Dow Corning 2501 Cosmetic Wax. One can say that it is a “water-soluble silicone”. It is really a way to introduce a little of silicone properties in a water phase. It is firstly claimed to be a humectant / moisturizer, due to its hydrophilic part (“Bis-PEG-18 -”). But it is also claimed to “detackify” (that is to say it helps to remove sticky feel of formulations). These two aspects of this raw material are certainly the reasons why Lauder used it : Lauder has clearly introduced several moisturizing agents to improve the efficiency of its formula on moisturization. DC 2501 Cosmetic Wax is one of them. But this ingredients helps also to improve the cosmeticity of the formula.

The oily phase is made of squalane, which brings nutrition, without greasy feel.

There are no difference between the old and the new version of Advance Night Repair formula skeletons : the surfactants, the thickeners, the emollients and oils are the same. We clearly see here the will of Estee Lauder not to change a winning texture. The renovation of its star product is based on new active ingredients, with an improved and renewed communication.

The exact composition of the new Advance Night Repair formula has been found in Estée Lauder’s patent application US20090220481, and is available below.

Preservative system :

The formula is protected against microorganisms by Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben and Benzyl Alcohol.

The formula also contains Trisodium EDTA as sequestrant.

Active ingredients / Claims :

Active ingredients already in the original Advanced Night Repair formula :

Comparing the past version of Advanced Night Repair “Night Recovery Complex” and the new one “Synchronized Recovery Complex”, the active ingredients present in the new formula are the same, with the addition of two new ones :

The following were already in the “old” Advanced Night Repair version :

-Bifida Ferment Lysate : sold notably by CLR – Chemlishes Laboratorium Dr Kurt Richter as Repair Complex CLR, it is the active ingredient in the highest concentration in the formula. It is claimed to increase DNA repair, which is the reason to be of Advanced Night Repair.

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate : UV-B filter. It is not used here to give an SPF protection to the formula, but maybe to protect the formula itself against UV degradation.

Cola Acuminata (Kola) Extract : no data available on its properties or supplier, it could be a proprietary ingredient of Lauder.

Retinyl Palmitate : famous anti-aging ingredient, derived from Vitamin A.

Pantethine : dimeric and more biologically active form of Vitamin B5, it is an intermediate in the production of Coenzyme A by the body.

Caffeine : usually used in cosmetic industry in slimming and eye formulas, it has basically skin conditionning properties : it is known to enhance the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness

- Sodium RNA : sodium salt of ribonucleic acid, few informations are available. It has skin conditionning properties, claimed here to help repair and renew the skin.

Bisabolol : known to have anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties

Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) : extract of chamomile, known for its antiseptic, antibiotic, disinfectant and bactericidal properties

Sodium Hyaluronate : it is a polysaccharide naturally found in the body, functionning as a tissue lubricant. It is the salt form of Hyaluronic Acid. It is often used as a moisturizer due to its capacity to hold water.

Tocopheryl Acetate : Vitamin E derivative.

Three new ingredient in the new Advanced Night Repair :

These three following are new. Several very useful informations on these new ingredients, and on the new Advanced Night Repair formula are given in Estee Lauder’s patent applications US20090220481, US20100080845 and US20100028317, the most relevant being US20090220481. Reading them, we can identify the trade names, suppliers and properties of :

- Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract : extracted from Arabidopsis Thaliana, according to these patent applications, it is said to be Roxisomes™ (Water (and) Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract (and) Lecithin), a liposomal form of this plant extract, from AGI Dermatics. It contains a DNA repair enzyme, 8-oxoguanine DNA glucosylase, said to “repair the oxydative 8-oxoguanine damages in both genomic and mitochondrial DNA”.According to this AGI Dermatics press release, 8-oxoguanine DNA glucosylase (OGG1) encapsulated in liposomes “is an effective agent in treating photodamaged skin by enhancing DNA repair, reducing MMP-1 secretion and increasing collagen production in UV irradiated skin cells”.

- Tripeptide-32 : this ingredient is a polypeptide. According to the patent applications mentioned above, it is an ingredient supplied by ISP-Vincience, under the trade name Chronolux™. This ingredient is claimed to be a “CLOCK or PER1 keratinocyte gene activator” : according to patent application US20090220481, CLOCK (Circadian Locomotor Output Cycles Kaput) and PER1 (Period Homolog 1) genes are encoding for protein that regulate circadian rythms. They are also present in keratinocytes, and they promote synthesis of corresponding proteins which promote cellular viability and repair. These genes are most activated during daylight, and “turned off” during night. The invention protected by this patent application is that activation of CLOCK and PER1 genes present in keratinocytes results in synthesis of proteins that promote cellular viability, cellular longevity, inhibition of cellular damage due to environmental aggressors, and improved repair of DNA damage. Using Chronolux in the new Advance Night Repair, Estee Lauder aims to act on CLOCK and PER1 genes to promote viability and reparation of skin cells, preferably during the night when they are less active.

- Lactobacillus Ferment : obtained from the fermentation of Lactobacillus. According to the patent applications, this ingredient is supplied by AGI Dermatics, under the trade name Adasomes™. It is a DNA repair enzyme known to be effective in repairing 06-methyl guanine base mutation damage.

AGI Dermatics and Estée Lauder Companies :

Two of the three new ingredients of the new Advance Night Repair are supplied by AGI Dermatics. Actually, AGI Dermatics has been acquired by the Estée Lauder Companies in September 2008. Its Chairman and President of the Board until 2008, Daniel B. Yarosh, is now Senior Vice President, Basic Science Research Estee Lauder. This acquisition is a major step for Lauder in the introducing DNA and Genes knowledge in skincare.

DNA Damage / DNA Repair claims :

The properties of these three ingredients match the new communication made by Estee Lauder on its renovation of Advance Night Repair, based on DNA damages caused by external stresses (pollution, UV rays,…etc) and CLOCK genes. This tough biological mechanism of action is very well popularized in this following video, available on Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair minisite :

Estee Lauder than emphasize the Chronolux technology that “helps get skin back in sync. Synchronization means helping your skin get its optimal natural repair“. No mention is made about the DNA repair enzymes of Roxisomes and Adasomes technologies.

As for every cosmetic product, besides the biological story, consumers expect benefits for their skin. Advance Night Repair claims to have the following properties :

  • Repairs the appearance of past damage
  • Adresses damaging effects before they become permanent
  • Visible improvement in the sings of aging-specifically lines, univen skintone and immediate hydration
  • Neutralizes up to 90% of environmentally generated free radicals
  • Increases skin’s levels of moisturization
  • Soothes daily irritation

It is a quite broad range of action, addressing all the problems of aging skins : correction, prevention, wrinkle visibility, moisturization, sensitivity. This reinforces the positionning of Advance Night Repair as the first step of night treatment in the Estée Lauder range of skincare products.

Conclusion :

For the renovation of one of its pilar product, Estée Lauder has taken no risks in terms of texture : the structure of the new Advance Night Repair (surfactants, thickeners, emollients, oils) is strictly the same as the original formula. They did not even try to “clean” the formula, according to current attitude in the cosmetic industry, of the mediatically criticized ingredients (ie. parabens). But it is a real challenge for formulators to renovate a formula when it is as famous and used by so many consumers : the tiniest change, even barely noticable, can make a difference for consumer loyal to a product for years.

Technically, Advance Night Repair is a very light emulsified gel (only 0.6% of oil – squalane and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate). Its light yet moisturizing and emollient feel is given by PEG-75, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane and Butylene Glycol, Glycereth-26 and Methylgluceth-20. All these ingredients are water soluble, and claimed as good moisturizers, with good sensorial properties.

The biological background of this renovation seems scientifically strong. It seems that the takeover of AGI Dermatics by Estée Lauder has greatly helped Lauder to build its knowledge in genes and ADN roles in skin beauty. Based on three new active ingredients, the communication of the new Advanced Night Repair is around DNA damage and DNA repair, through the activation of CLOCK genes. Even if the science behind this renovation is not easy to understand for a non-scientist, Lauder had as always the talent to make it quite simple yet “fashionable” for a cosmetic product.

Ingredient list :

Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex (new formula) :

Water
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Methyl Gluceth-20
PEG-75
Butylene Glycol
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract
Tripeptide-32
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Lactobacillus Ferment
Cola Acuminata (Kola) Extract
Retinyl Palmitate
Pantethine
Caffeine
Glycereth-26
Sodium RNA
Squalane
Oleth-3 Phosphate
Oleth-3
Oleth-5
Bisabolol
Choleth-24
Ceteth-24
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile)
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Lecithin
Xanthan Gum
TEA-Carbomer
Trisodium EDTA
BHT
Phenoxyethanol
Methylparaben
Benzyl Alcohol
Green 5 (CI 61570)
Yellow 5 (CI 19140)
Red 4 (CI 14700)


More precise informations than the full ingredient labelling of the product can be given here, thanks to the informations available in the patent applications US20090220481 and US20100028317. Indeed, in order to demonstrate any invention, examples must be given in the text of a patent. And there are very strong probabilities that Example 1 of patent application US20090220481 and Example 1 of US20100028317 equate to the exact composition of the new Advance Night Repair formula, retranscripted below :

Ingredients w/w %
Oleth-3 phosphate 0.45
Oleth-3 0.35
Oleth-5 0.24
Butylene Glycol 0.20
Squalane 0.50
BHT 0.10
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 0.10
Choleth-24 / Ceteth-24 0.10
Triethanolamine 0.11
Retinyl palmitate /zea mays (corn) oil / BHT / BHA 0.10
Butylene Glycol 1.10
Chamomile 0.03
Bisabolol 0.10
Water QS
Methylparaben 0.46
PEG-75 4.00
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane 2.00
Glycereth-26 1.00
Methyl Gluceth-20 4.00
Trisodium EDTA 0.10
Pantethine 0.14
Caffeine 0.05
Xanthan gum 0.075
Carbomer 0.26
Triethanolamine 0.50
Phenoxyethanol 0.70
Benzyl alcohol 0.10
Bifida Ferment Lysate 9.40
Water / Bifida Ferment Lysate / Hydrogenated Lecithin 3.00
Butylene Glycol / Water / Cola Acuminata extract 3.00
Sodium Ribonucleic Acid 0.01
Water / Butylene Glycol / Tripeptide-32 0.20
Lactobacillus Ferment / Lecithin / Water 0.05
Water / Arabidopsis Thaliana extract / Lecithin 0.05
Phenoxyethanol 0.02
Sodium Hyaluronate 0.01
FD&C Red No. 4 (1% aqueous solution with butylene glycol) 0.04
FD&C Yellow No. 5 (1% aqueous solution with butylene glycol) 0.09
D&C Green No. 5 (0.1% solution with butylene glycol) 0.001

Advanced Night Repair Protective Recovery Complex (old / original formula) :

Water
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Methyl Gluceth-20
PEG-75
Butylene Glycol
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Glycereth-26
Cola Acuminata (Kola) Extract
Squalane
Sodium RNA
Sodium Hyaluronate
Retinyl Palmitate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Bisabolol
Pantethine
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Oleth-3 Phosphate
Oleth-3
Oleth-5
Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile)
Caffeine
Choleth-24
Ceteth-24
Xanthan Gum
TEA-Carbomer
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
BHT
Trisodium EDTA
Benzyl Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol
Methylparaben
Yellow 5 (CI 19140)
Green 5 (CI 61570)
Red 4 (CI 14700)

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