Neutrogena Clinical with Johnson & Johnson’s Cytomimic technology

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Neutrogena Clinical range
Neutrogena Clinical range

Launched in March in the US, Neutrogena Clinical range contains the new J&J’s Cytomimic technology.

The new Neutrogena Clinical range is made of the 3 following products :

Neutrogena Clinical SPF 30 Facial Lifting Wrinkle Treatment :

Neutrogena Clinical SPF 30 Facial Lifting Wrinkle Treatment

Step 1 : ion2complex™ Serum

Identical composition to the Step 1 of the Roc Brilliance Day Rejuvenating Moisturizer SPF 20, see comments above.

Step2 : SPF 30 Activating Cream

Formula structure :

Oil/Water emulsion, emulsified with Croda’s Brij 72 (Steareth-2 – HLB 4.9) / Brij 721 (Steareth-21 – HLB 15.5) / Croda’s Arlacel 165 (PEG-100 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate) / Seppic’s Montanov 68 (Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) / Seppic’s Montanov 202 (Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside), stabilized and thickened by Seppic’s Sepigel 305 (Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7) / Lubrizol’s Pemulen (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate/Copolymer).

The oil phase is made of light silicone oil (Cyclopentasiloxane) and a silicone crosspolymer, a Shin-Etsu’s KSG-16 type (Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer) for a smooth and velvety feel on skin, and of Innospec’s Finsolv TN (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate), heavy and shiny oil, but very useful to solubilize lipophilic UV filters in emulsions.

The formula also contains powders : Silica and Akzo Nobel’s Dry Flo (Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate). Powders are usually added to improve application, penetration and finish of skincare formulas. It is even more true in SPF formulas, where UV filters often damage the sensoriality.

Active ingredients :

The product claims a SPF 30 UV protection, and contains a blend of five UV filters. As a US sunscreen OTC product, its ingredient labelling gives their percentages in the formula :

Avobenzone (3%) (which is the OTC name in the US monography of UV protecting products). Its INCI name is : Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane). It is often called by its trade name Parsol 1789, and is a UVA filter
Homosalate (12%), a UVB filter
Octisalate (5%). Its INCI name is Octyl Salicylate. It is a UVB filter.
Octocrylene (5%), a UVB and short-UVA filter
Oxybenzone (3%). Its INCI name is Benzophenone-3. It absorbs UVB and short-wave UVA.

The formula claims the use of the patented Neutrogena’s Helioplex technology, the combination of Avobenzone and Oxybenzone filters.

The formula contains only Citric Acid as a potential other active ingredient, but it is often used as a pH adjuster. This formula does not even contain Glycerin as a humectant, but only Butylene Glycol.

Preservative system :

To protect the formula agains microorganisms, the formula contains Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben and Propylparaben as perservative agents.

The formula contains two sequestrants (Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine and Disodium EDTA) and a anti-oxydant, Ciba’s Tinogard TT (Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate).

Neutrogena Clinical Night Facial Lifting Wrinkle Treatment :

Neutrogena Clinical Night Facial Lifting Wrinkle Treatment

Step 1 : ion2complex™ Serum

Identical composition to the Step 1 of the Roc Brilliance Day Rejuvenating Moisturizer SPF 20, see comments above.

Step 2 : Night Activating Cream

Formula structure :

Oil/Water emulsion, emulsified with Croda’s Arlacel 165 (PEG-100 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate) / Cetyl Alcohol, stabilized and thickened with Pemulen (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) / Sclerotium Gum.

The oil phase contains only two oils : a silicone oil (Dimethicone) and Cognis Cetiol CC (Dicaprylyl Carbonate).

Active ingredients :

The formula contains Glycolic Acid as active ingredient.

Like SPF 30 Day formula, the Night formula does not contain Glycerin, but only Butylene Glycol.

Preservative system :

The formula is protected against microorganisms by DMDM Hydantoin, Methylparaben and Propylparaben.

The formula contains two sequestrants (Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine and Disodium EDTA).

Neutrogena Clinical Eye Lift Contouring Treatment :

Neutrogena Clinical Eye Lift Contouring Treatment

Step 1 : ion2complex™ Serum

Identical composition to the Step 1 of the Roc Brilliance Day Rejuvenating Moisturizer SPF 20, see comments above.

Step 2 : Eye Activating Cream

Formula structure :

Structure close to previous Neutrogena Clinical Night Activating Cream, it is also an Oil/Water emulsion, emulsified with Croda’s Arlacel 165 (PEG-100 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate) / Cetyl Alcohol, stabilized and thickened with Pemulen (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) / Sclerotium Gum.

The oil phase is also the same, made of a silicone oil (Dimethicone) and Cognis Cetiol CC (Dicaprylyl Carbonate).

Unlike the Night Activating Cream, the Eye Activating Cream contains pearls (Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide)

Active ingredients :

The formula contains the following active ingredients :

Glycolic Acid
– An extract of of Saccharomyces Lysate (Saccharomyces Lysate Extract), that is probably provided by Arch Chemicals, which supplies several saccharomyces lysate extracts under different trade names : Biodynes H2O2 (claimed to have anti-inflammatory, anti-irritant, line minimizing, cell renewing and proliferating properties) or Biodynes TRF (claimed to promote collagen synthesis).

Preservative system :

The formula is protected against microorganisms by DMDM Hydantoin, Methylparaben and Propylparaben.

The formula contains two sequestrants (Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine and Disodium EDTA).

Communication and claims :

For Neutrogena, JnJ has trademarked its Cytomimic™ technology as the ion2complex™. Contrary to what has been done in Roc’s communication on Brilliance range, not some much details are given on Cytomimic / ion2complex technology. It is just described on at the bottom of a page on the Neutrogena Clinical website dedicated to the “technology”, as a “breakthrough two-part system containing essential ion-mineral conductors that, when activated by the companion moisturizer, create a positive electric micro-current—promoting healthy collagen levels and resilient, more youthful looking skin”. Unlike in Roc communication, the technology is a little bit more explained and described : in the name “ion2complex”, and about the “ion-mineral conductors”.

Neutrogena Clinical range is presented as a “revolution in anti-aging that activates to minimize the visible signs of collagen loss for a firmer, more youthfull look”. Actually, the range is said to provide a global and visible anti-aging efficacy, improving firmness, resilience, definition of the face, the look of wrinkles, smoothing and softening the skin.

The results are presented under 3 angles :

– impressive “before /after” views of eye contours
– weekly results based on self-assessments
– percentages obtained during clinical evaluation

No specific communication is made on the other active ingredients added to the Step 2s such as Glycolic Acid, which certainly helps in the efficacy.

Conclusion :

Just as we said about the Roc Brilliance range : the true novelty of this Neutrogena Clinical range is the presence of the Step 1 in the Day, Night and Eye products, based on JnJ’s Cytomimic technology of galvanic generated electricity. More than just carrying the zinc and copper powder on the skin, this anhydrous formula contains silicone crosspolymer : it helps to instantly smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkle through soft focus efficacy.

The Steps 1s are actually the same formula, not only between the three products of the range, but also between the Steps 1s of the Roc Brilliance range.

The Steps 2s are quite classical formulations, around Arlacel 165 and Pemulen. There are no common point between these Steps 2s and the one of Roc Brilliance range.

The Cytomimic technology is here named “ion2complex”, and is presented in a slightly different way as Roc Brilliance. No emphasis is made on the “electricity” technology behind the Activating Serum. More is made on the results, and the communication on the global anti-aging efficacy of the formulas.

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