Roc Radiance Rejuvenate Technical Analysis

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As announced on CosmetoScope, RoC launches this September 2011 its new range Radiance Rejuvenate.

RoC launches a new range quite classic, without any real innovation :

–          the formulation technologies were already used in other SPF products launched by Johnson & Johnson in other RoC products or other brands of its portfolio, e.g. RoC Brilliance Day Rejuvenating Crème SPF 20, Aveeno Positively Luminous Hydratant Jour SPF 15 / SPF 15 Moisturizer. This “cascading” of formula structure is quite usual in big companies of the Cosmetic Industry : it allows to reduce the cost of development and risks of failure during the development of a new product, using a technology already tested and launched on the market. It is even more relevant for the development of an SPF formulation : it is indeed quite challenging, since the formulator must at the same time find the good association of UV filters to reach the SPF required, while keeping a good cosmeticity to make the formula easy and pleasant to apply onto the skin.

–          Some of the active ingredients are well known (pearls, Glycolic Acid, minerals), others are already used for a long time in other RoC formulas (Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine). The really new active ingredient in this range is Celldetox, an extract of bacteria, supplied by Silab, a French cosmetic active ingredient supplier.

The new Radiance Rejuvenate range adds a new anti-aging offer to the RoC brand for younger women, associating a communication on aging to a communication on complexion. This is a smart idea to “rejuvenate” the RoC consumer base. And it actually is a trend since Clarins, with Vital Light, and Estée Lauder, with the last renovation of Resilience, has done the same.

Radiance Rejuvenate Communication & Claims

This new range from RoC is dedicated to women from 30. It targets the lack of radiance, claiming to illuminate and unify complexion, smooth wrinkles and re-plump skin.

The Radiance Rejuvenate range is made of 3 products :

–          the Radiance Activating Water

–          the Smoothing Anti-aging Cream SPF 15 for Normal to Combination Skin

–          the Smoothing Anti-aging Cream SPF 15 for Dry and Sensitive Skin

The Radiance Activating Water is a basic cleansing water built around two cleansing surfactants, claiming to remove make-up, replump and illuminate the skin, with Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid as star ingredient.

The two Creams, actually the same formula slightly changed to fit the needs of dry to combination skins, are claimed to provide a double action to counteract aging both on the surface and deeper into the skin :

–          on the surface of the skin, Roc states that from 30, “cellular turnover slows down and dead cells accumulates”. Radiance Rejuvenate Cream provides :

  • “Silk Pearls” for an “immediate reflexion of light”, corresponding to pearls (INCI : Mica)
  • Glycolic Acid claimed to “eliminate dead cells causing dull complexion”

–          deeper into the skin, RoC claims that “wrinkles appear and skin color is less uniform”. To help to prevent and correct this, Radiance Rejuvenate contains :

  • “Celldetox” : as said in our first article on RoC Radiance Rejuvenate, it corresponds to Hydrolyzed Candida Saitoana Extract, sold by Silab under the tradename Celldetox. Claimed by RoC as a “cell detoxifyier”, Silab explains that “it boosts the autophagy system: it ­stimulates the formation of autophagosomes, responsible for sequestering altered cell constituents, and ­delivers them for lysosomal degradation”.
  • “THPE”, or Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, sold by BASF under the tradename “Neutrol TE”, it is “recommended as a neutralization agent”. It claimed by RoC to “smooth and re-plump wrinkles”. Also used in several other RoC products, THPE is claimed in this document to “act on the contraction of keratinocytes for improving skin firmness”. It is said to be patented with two patents. However, we were not able to find the exact references of these patents.
  • “Cocktail of minerals” : claimed to “increase the synthesis of collagen”. It is made of the association of three ingredients : Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, and Copper Gluconate.

Radiance Rejuvenate Radiance Activating Water

Formula Structure

Aqueous lotion containing cleansing surfactants (Polysorbate 20, Poloxamer 184) and moisturizing agents (Methyl Gluceth-20 and Butylene Glycol).

Preservative System

The formula is protected against microbiological growth with Parabens (Sodium Methylparaben, Sodium Ethylparaben and Sodium Propylparaben), DMDM Hydantoin and Phenoxyethanol.

The formula also contain a pH buffer system (Citric Acid / Sodium Citrate) and a anti-oxidant (BHT).

Active Ingredients

The formula contains the following active ingredients :

–          Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

–          Magnesium Aspartate

–          Zinc Gluconate

–          Copper Gluconate

–          Panthenol

Radiance Rejuvenate Smoothing Anti-aging Cream SPF 15 Normal to Combination Skin

Formula Structure

Oil/Water Emulsion, emulsified with Croda’s Brij 72 (Steareth-2 – HLB 4.9) / Brij 721 (Steareth-21 – HLB 15.5) and Croda’s Arlatone 2121 (Sucrose Stearate (and) Sorbitan Stearate – HLB 6) helped by Behenyl Alcohol / Linseed Acid as co-surfactants. The formula is stabilized and thickened by polymers : Seppic’s Simugel FL or INS 100 (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 60) / Lubrizol’s Carbopol 1382 type (Acrylate/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) / Xanthan Gum.

Other surfactants are present in the formula, that could help to stabilize the emulsion, to disperse powder, or to solubilize other ingredients : Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate and PEG-8 Laurate.

The oil phase of the formula is made of Dicaprylyl Carbonate / Ethylhexylpalmitate / Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter and Dimethicone.

The formula contains two other polymers that can help to boost its UV index : Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer (Rhom & Haas’ Sunsphere LCG) and Acrylate Copolymer (Dow Corning Sunsphere Powder).

Finally, the formula contains a pearl (Mica) and dyes (CI 77891 and CI 17200).

Preservative System

The formula is protected against microbiological growth with Ethylhexylglycerin / Caprylyl Glycol / Caprylhydroxamic Acid / Phenoxyethanol, helped with Disodium EDTA.

The pH of the formula is adjusted with Sodium Hydroxide.

Active Ingredients

The product claims a SPF 15 UV protection, and contains a blend of three UV filters :

–          Homosalate

–          Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

–          Octocrylene

The formula also contains the following active ingredients :

–          Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine

–          Glycolic Acid

–          Magnesium Aspartate

–          Zinc Gluconate

–          Copper Gluconate

–          Hydrolyzed Candida Saitoana Extract

–          Tocopherol

Radiance Rejuvenate Smoothing Anti-aging Cream SPF 15 Dry and Sensitive Skins

This formula and the Smoothing Cream SPF 15 for Normal to Combination Skin have exactly the same composition (same ingredients in the ingredient list). The only difference is in the order of this ingredients : the Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter) is higher in this Normal to Dry Skin than in the Normal to Combination Skin formula, in order to make it richer and more nutritious for drier skins.

Consequently, preservative system, UV filters and active ingredients are the same.

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