Nivea Cellular Anti-Age

Nivea is launching this May 2013 a new range of anti-aging skincare : Cellular Anti-Age

This new range of 4 formulas is targeting women from their 45s : a SPF15 Day Cream, a Night Cream, a Serum and a Eye Cream.

Nivea Cellular Anti-Age range

Conclusions :

With Nivea Cellular Anti-Age, Beiersdorf tries to rejuvenate its skincare range, and to build a new pillar. It is not yet clear, but it seems that Nivea Cellular Anti-Age is aimed to replace Nivea DNAge and Nivea Expert Lift ranges – these two range have disappeared from the french Nivea website.

The interesting aspect of this launch are the said extensive consumer studies conducted by Beiersdorf to design and optimize the formula, in order to fit to the expectations of women.

The concept of the range is not very risky : concepts around cells have been launch in several other brands since several years now : L’Oréal DermaGenese, Olay Regenerist, Diadermine Novagen, …

And the technologies, for textures and active ingredients, are also in the state of the art of Nivea formulation strategy :

– few and known active ingredients : Creatine was used in DNAge, Hyaluronic Acid was used in Expert Lift, and Magnolia Extract in Pure Effect. Nivea capitalizes on the knowledge of its consumers on these three active ingredients, already starified in other ranges of the brand

– standard and classical formulation technologies : the 4 formulas are O/W emulsions, 3 of them being build around Glyceryl Stearate derivatives. The thickeners are as usual for Nivea Carbomers of Acrylic derivatives. The range is completely free of parabens. The only “official” preservative listed in the European Cosmetic regulations is Phenoxyethanol. The preservation of the formulas relies on glycols and diols (1,2-Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin).

It could be said that the extend of consumer studies conducted for this range are not reflected into the answer given by Nivea in technological terms : concept, active ingredients and textures are quite classical, not innovative, but in line with what Nivea has always done in Skincare, with robust technologies and simple and understandable communication.

Communication and Claims :

Nivea says to have developed this range to answer the specific needs of these women : the lack of elasticity and firmness of their skin, causing wrinkles to come.

The development of this line-up is said to be the largest ever done by Beiersdorf (mother company of Nivea) as it involved more than 18000 women. The following video gives more details on the development process followed for Nivea Cellular Anti-Age. There is a strong emphasis on the tests conducted on consumers, and the use of their feedback to design, adapt and improve the formulations. It is also interesting to see that the fragrance was also take into account in the design of the range.

Nivea Cellular Anti-Age – R&D development

Concept of the range : the link with “cells” ?

The insight of Nivea to introduce the range is the “cellular tiredness” : with time, skin gets “tired” : wrinkles settle down, skin is thiner, looser, less elastic. Nivea attributes this to the “cellular tiredness” that makes skin cells less active, working less efficiently and less rapidly than young cells. Here comes Nivea Cellular Anti-age claimed to be like a “youth stimulator” for tired cells.

The range is built around 3 active ingredients :

- Fragmented hyaluronic acid : Nivea states that more than 56% of hyaluronic acid in our body is in our skin. It is one of the main component of the connective tissue linking cells. According to Nivea, with age, body produces less and less hyaluronic acid, causing a loosened and dried skin. With fragmented hyaluronic acid, Nivea says to ensure a better penetration of it in the skin, to restore plump and moisture in the skin.

- Magnolia extract : said to be a traditional ingredient of Chinese medicine, and a powerful antioxidant. An extract of Magnolia was already the star ingredient of the Nivea Pure Effect range (same INCI name : Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract), and was claimed to have anti-bacterial properties.

- Creatine : said to supply derm cells into energy to prevent signs of aging.

Nivea Cellular Anti-Age SPF15 Day Cream :

Formula Structure :

O/W emulsion, emulsified with Glyceryl Stearate SE, helped with Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetyl Alcohol, thickened and stabilized with Acrylate/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer and Xanthan Gum.

Appart from the UV filters given below, the oil phase is made of Dimethicone (highest oil in the ingredient list), Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ethylhexyl Stearate.

The aqueous phase contains Alcohol Denat. in the top of the ingredient list, maybe to impart freshness and to make a lighter formula, but also to help for preservation.

The formula also contains two powders to improve the skinfeel, usually damaged by UV filters : Polymethylsilsesquioxane (a silicone-derived powder) and Tapioca Starch.

Active Ingredients :

The formula contains the following active ingredients :

– UV filter system (claimed SPF15) : Ethylhexyl Salicylate / Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane / Octocrylene / Sodium Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonate

– Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract

– Creatine

– 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide : Creatinine

– Sodium Hyaluronate

Preservative System :

The formula is protected against microbiological growth with Phenoxyethanol, help with Alcohol Denat., Methylpropanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, and Trisodium EDTA.

Ingredient List :

Aqua, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Alcohol Denat., Glyceryl Stearate SE, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Methylpropanediol, Octocrylene, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Sodium Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonate, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Creatine, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tapioca Starch, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Trisodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Benzyl Alcohol, Geraniol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Parfum.

Nivea Cellular Anti-Age Night Cream

Formula Structure :

O/W emulsion, emulsified with Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, helped with Cetearyl Alcohol, thickened and stabilized with Sodium Carbomer.

The oil phase contains Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil and Dimethicone.

The formula contains also a powder : Polymethylsilsequioxane.

Active Ingredients :

The formula contains the following active ingredients :

– Panthenol

– Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract

– Creatine

– 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide

– Sodium Hyaluronate

Preservative System :

The formula is protected against microbiological growth with Phenoxyethanol, helped with Methylpropanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, and Trisodium EDTA.

Ingredient List :

Aqua, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Methylpropanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Panthenol, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Polymethylsilsequioxane, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Creatine, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dimethicone, Sodium Carbomer, Trisodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Benzyl Alcohol, Geraniol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Parfum.

Nivea Cellular Anti-Age Skin Perfecting Serum

Formula Structure :

O/W emulsion, emulsified with Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, helped with Cetearyl Alcohol, thickened and stabilized with Sodium Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer.

The oil phase is made of Cyclomethicone, Ethylhexylcocoate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, and Dimethiconol.

The formula contains a powder among the first ingredients of the INCI list (consequently probably in a concentration > 1%) : Polymethylsilsesquioxane.

Active Ingredients :

The formula contains the following active ingredients :

– Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract

– Creatine

– 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide

– Sodium Hyaluronate

Preservative System :

The formula is protected against microbiological growth by Phenoxyethanol, helped with Methylpropanediol and 1,2-Hexanediol.

Ingredient List :

Aqua, Cyclomethicone, Glycerin, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Methylpropanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Creatine, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Dimethiconol, Sodium Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Chloride, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Benzyl Alcohol, Geraniol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Parfum.

Nivea Cellular Anti-Age Eye Care

Formula Structure :

O/W emulsion, emulsified with Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, helped with Cetearyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol, thickened and stabilized with Sodium Carbomer.

The oil phase contains Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Palmitate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Coco-Glycerides, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil and Dimethicone.

The formula contains a powder : Polymethylsilsesquioxane.

As many eye cares on the market, the formula does not contain fragrance.

Active Ingredients :

The formula contains the following active ingredients :

– Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract

– Creatine

– 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide

– Sodium Hyaluronate

Preservative System :

The formula is protected against microbiological growth with Phenoxyethanol, helped with Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerine, and Trisodium EDTA.

Ingredient List :

Aqua, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Dicaprylyl Ether, 1,2-Hexanediol, Coco-Glycerides, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Creatine, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dimethicone, Sodium Carbomer, Trisodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77891.

[Source] [Source] [Source] [Source]

-

About A.B.