Vichy Idealia

Vichy launches in March 2012 Idealia, a new moisturizing range, claiming to create an ideal skin.

Vichy Idéalia

This new launch of Vichy seems dedicated to women around 30 looking for a first anti-wrinkle cream. This range is made of two formulas, a Dry Skin and a Normal to Combination Skin versions, both built around a classical, affordable yet efficient structure, joining Croda Arlacel 165 to Carbomer, associated with modern silicone technologies (silicone elastomers) for a velvety skin texture. The concept is built around the “ideal skin”, supported by a global study about women expectations. Vichy’s answer is brought through a fermented tea extract claimed to be used at 3%, the exact percentage used by its supplier Sederma to prove its efficiency. This trick allows Vichy to use directly the results of the supplier’s Kombucha file in Idealia communication.

Regarding the general concept, the benefits of the product, and even the design on its packaging, Vichy Idéalia is very probably L’Oréal’s answer to recent JnJ launch of Roc Radiance Rejuvenate range, dedicated to women around 30, claiming to illuminate and unify complexion, smooth wrinkles and re-plump skin, the exact claims of Vichy Idéalia…

Active ingredients / Claims

The new Vichy Idéalia formulas are said to be the result of a global study conducted in France, China, Brasil and the USA in order to define what are women expectations about their skin, and what is their ideal skin. The result of this study is that an ideal skin exhibits the following criterias :

– perfect skin quality

– texture of skin refined

– homogeneous complexion

– no dark spot nor dyschromia

– smoothed wrinkles and fine lines

The “ideal skin” is the heart of the concept of Vichy Idéalia, claimed as an “ideal skin creator”. This new Vichy formula is claimed to :

– visibly smooth wrinkle and refine skin texture

– skin is soft and plumped

– skin’s natural light is revived for a fresh and uniform complexion

It is built around a star ingredient, Kombucha extract used at 3%. Regarding its supplier data sheet, it could be used alone to reach the “ideal skin” parameters. However, it is also associated in the formula with other active ingredient detailed below, that complement Kombucha activity : anti-wrinkle agent, keratolytic agent, anti-oxidant agent, soothing agent.

Active ingredients of Idéalia are detailed below :

Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment : this ingredient is sold by Sederma under the tradename “Kombucha. Kombucha is a fermeted tea. Sederma owns a patent on this active ingredient. Vichy claims to use it at 3% in Idéalia formula. This is the exact concentration used by Sederma to sell its active ingredient and demonstrate its efficacy. This allows Vichy to use directly in its communications on Idéalia the results obtained by Sederma for Kombucha. This active ingredient tested  at 3% is claimed to :

– have antiglycation effect (in-vitro)

– induces growth of adipocyte population (in-vitro)

– improves skin surface (in-vivo)

– improves the clarity of the complexion (in-vivo)

To summarize, it is said to “improve firmness, smoothness and complexion”.

Adenosine : this ingredient is said to have anti-inflammatory properties, and benefits in wound-healing. This study suggests that is also have anti-wrinkle properties. More details are given by BioSpectrum, a supplier of Adenosine : “Adenosine exerts several of its actions by binding to adenosine receptors located on the surface of vascular and skeletal muscle cells and it is thus in the interstitium that adenosine exerts its action. Adenosine reduces the effect of calcium, the main messenger of contraction, on the inside of the cell. Adenosine drains the skin, leaving it light and smooth. It improves an appearance of wrinkles and increases skin smoothness.”

Tocopheryl Acetate : Vitamin E derivative, Vitamin E being known for its anti-oxidant properties.

Capryloyl Salicylic Acid : this molecule is an active ingredient owned and patented by L’Oréal (mother company of Vichy). One of the first patents issued on it is the FR2607498, but L’Oréal owns much more patents on this technology. As described in this article, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid is an ester of Salicylic Acid. It has more or less the same properties as Salicylic Acid, but unlike Salicylic Acid that is water soluble, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid is oil soluble. This improves its ability  to penetrates the upper layers of skin, and its efficiency as a keratolytic agent. It is thus an interesting active ingredient in anti-aging products, to help remove dead cells and renew skin.

Thermal Vichy water : claimed as being “soothing and regenerating”

Vichy Idealia Dry Skin

Technology / Formula Structure

O/W emulsion, emulsified with Croda Arlacel 165 (PEG-100 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate) helped with Cetyl Alcohol as co-emulsifier, thickened and stabilized with Carbomer.

The oil phase is made of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Myreth-3 Myristate, Synthetic Wax, Octyldodecanol.

The oil phase contain also silicones and silicone derivatives that improve the touch and the afterfeel on skin :

– a silicone gum : Dimethiconol

– a silicone gel, associating a silicone oil and a silicone crosspolymer : Shin Etsu KSG-16 (Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer)

The aqueous phase is contains Glycerin, Propylene Glycol and Caprylyl Glycol.

The formula contains also pearls (Mica) and dyes (CI 17200, CI 15985 and CI 77891 corresponding to Titanium Dioxide). Pearls participate to the action of the formula on improving complexion and glow.

Preservative System

The formula is protected against microbiological growth by Phenoxyethanol, helped with co-preservatives : Caprylyl Glycol, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Propylene Glycol.

The formula also contain Sodium Hydroxide as a pH adjuster.

Vichy Idealia Normal to Combination Skin

Technology / Formula Structure

O/W emulsion, emulsified with Croda Arlacel 165 (PEG-100 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate) helped with Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol as co-emulsifier, thickened and stabilized with Carbomer.

The oil phase is made of Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Myreth-3 Myristate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Octyldodecanol, Synthetic Wax.

The oil phase contains two silicone gels that improve the touch and the afterfeel on skin :

Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend (Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer)

Shin Etsu KSG-16 (Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer)

The aqueous phase is contains Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Pentylene Glycol and Caprylyl Glycol.

The formula contains also pearls (Mica) and dyes (CI 17200, CI 15985 and CI 77891 corresponding to Titanium Dioxide). Pearls participate to the action of the formula on improving complexion and glow.

To improve the touch of the formula, and make it penetrate faster, the formula contains also a powder, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer (Sensient Covabead LH85), claimed to have high oil/water absorption.

Preservative System

The formula is protected against microbiological growth by Phenoxyethanol, helped with co-preservatives : Alcohol Denat., Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid.

The formula also contain Sodium Hydroxide as a pH adjuster.

Comparison between the Dry Skin and the Normal to Combination Skin versions

The Dry Skin formula has a richer texture than the Normal to Combination Skin version. It contains richer oils (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter) and a silicon gum (Dimethiconol) that gives a heavier feel on skin. While the Normal to Combination Skin formula is lighter thanks to Alcohol Denat. – improving freshness  -, a light fatty ester (Isopropyl Palmitate), a silicone gel (DC 9041) and a powder (Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer) that “dries” the formula, and improves the skin penetration.

Ingredients

Vichy Idealia Dry Skin

Aqua
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Dimethicone
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Cetyl Alcohol
Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Myreth-3 Myristate
Propylene Glycol
Synthetic Wax
Octyldodecanol
PEG-100 Stearate
CI 17200
CI 15985
CI 77891
Mica
Carbomer
Glyceryl Stearate
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Dimethiconol
Sodium Hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol
Adenosine
Tocopheryl Acetate
Caprylyl Glycol
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Parfum

Vichy Idealia Normal to Combination Skin

Aqua
Glycerin
Dimethicone
Alcohol Denat.
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Saccharomyces/Xylinum Black Tea Ferment
Myreth-3 Myristate
Isopropyl Palmitate
Pentylene Glycol
Cetyl Alcohol
Octyldodecanol
Synthetic Wax
PEG-100 Stearate
CI 17200
CI 15985
CI 77891
Stearyl Alcohol
Mica
Carbomer
Glyceryl Stearate
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol
Adenosine
Tocopheryl Acetate
Caprylyl Glycol
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Parfum

[Sources]

About A.B.