L’Oréal Paris has launched in January 2012 an extension to its Youth Code / Code Jeunesse range, claiming anti-dark spot / illuminating properties.

This new range is made of 3 formulas :

– a Day Cream without SPF launched in Europe (jar on the left)

– a SPF 30 Cream launched in the US (jar on the right)

– a Corrector Serum launched in Europe and in the USA (two differents pumps)

The new Youth Code Luminize / Youth Code Dark Spot Illuminating range targets “dull, uneven skin tone” for a “youthful glow”. This is a current trend on anti-aging skincare : lack of glow and dull complexion are linked to aging. Other recently launched products are built around or include the same concept (Vichy Idealia, Roc Radiance Rejuvenate, Estée Lauder Resilience Lift Firming/Sculpting Collection, Clarins Vital Light Day Illuminating anti-ageing comfort cream. In the USA, the communication on the products insists a little bit more on dark spots including these words in the own name of the products, very probably to match the positioning of Olay Definity now moved under Olay Total Effects range.

In terms of technology, L’Oréal uses some interesting ingredients not seen often in competitors products (sometime because of patents) : NOF Wilbride S-753 (PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin) associated with Glycerin in the Day Cream (Europe), Sasol Ceralution H (Behenyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (and) Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate) surfactant associated to Beneo BBC Inutec SP1 (Inulin Lauryl Carbamate) in the SPF30 Cream (USA), and Innuspec Natrlquest E30 (Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate), a chelating agent presented as an “environmentally friendly alternative to EDTA” also in the SPF30 Cream (USA). The Corrector Serum is less suprising, with the classical association of Croda Arlacel 165 (PEG-100 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate) to Seppic Sepigel 305 (Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7) and Xanthan Gum.

It is an interesting range of product, adapted to the local habits of consumers : non-SPF cream in Europe, SPF 30 cream in USA. As a anti-dark spot range, an SPF formulation seems more logical for prevention.

This range is launched under the Youth Code range. The first products launched in this range based their concept around genes, DNA, stem cells. Here with Youth Code Luminize, there is no link to these biological aspects. However, contrary to its sister range “Youth Code” launched first, the biological story around the concept does not mention clear links with genes, DNA or stem cells. Regarding the available communication on this new range, the only link to genes is in the marketing name “Lumi-Gen”.

Youth Code Luminize / Youth Code Dark Spot Illuminating range Active ingredients & Claims

The common communication around the Youth Code Luminize range is that the formulas fight the “irregular pigmentation beneath the skin’s surface which causes reduction of skin’s luminosity”. However, the “starified” ingredients are not always the same. For example :

– in France, Germany, Italy, the “Lumi-Gen” technology “regulates pigmentation for reducing dark spots“.

– in the UK, the “Liquid Light” technology gives an “instant luminous finish” while the serum is “40x more concentrated in Vitamin CG than the Day Cream”

– in the USA, the serum is claimed to “help reverse hyperpigmentation and prevent further melanin synthesis” with Vitamin B3, Vitamin CG, Pro-Cysteine and Recoverine.

With a closer look to the compositions of the formulas, the Day Cream (Europe) and the Serum share the following active ingredients :

– Niacinamide: also known as Vitamin B3 of Vitamin PP. This ingredient is classically used by Olay in its anti-aging products, which claims about it that “Niacinamide is an effective ingredient in skin care products. Topical niacinamide improves skin’s moisture barrier—and this helps allow for the natural production of collagen. It also strengthens the stratum corneum, or outermost layer of skin, and increases the rate of skin surface renewal to help reverse the appearance of past damage such as discoloration or the look of enlarged pores.” More details are given here.

– Ascorbyl Glucoside : Hayashibara AA2G™, claimed to be a stable version of Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) with glucose, also named Vitamin Cg. It is slowly released in skin under the action of alpha-glucosidase, an enzyme of the skin that breaks the link between ascorbic acid and glucose parts of the AA2G molecule. It has the properties of Vitamin C in terms of cosmetic activity : skin brightening, promotion of collagen synthesis increasing the suppleness of the skin, sunlight protection as free radical scavenger and wrinkles and fine lines reduction. The benefits vs Ascorbic Acid are its high stability, its prolonged action in skin throuhg a slow release and its higher solubility  and wider range of pH condition for an easier formulation.

– Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid : Kumar Organic Products sells this ingredient under the tradename Koprosteine. It is said to be “an important compound in the intracellular delivery of L-Cysteine in the body“, and to be useful for “fighting against intrisic skin ageing, de-pigmenting or bleaching skin, treating dry skin, retarding the ageing process“. L’Oréal holds a patent (EP1337234) on the “use of 2-Oxothiazolidine 4-Carboxylic Acid derivatives as agents promoting skin peeling“, where it shows that Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid helps to break down corneodesmosines. This active ingredient is named “Pro-Cysteine” in the patent.

– Castanea Sativa (Chestnut) Seed Extract : sold by SILAB under the tradename Recoverine, this active ingredient is said to improve the homeostasis of the skin barrier for a new anti-dry skin strategy. SILAB holds a patent (WO2004100915) on this ingredient, where its biological action is detailed : Recoverine improves the barrier function of skin through the increase of involucrin synthesis, of profilaggrin synthesis, of E-cadherin synthesis, of ceramide level, of the expression of lipid synthesis enzymes (Fatty Acid Synthase and Serine Palmitoyl Transferase), of epidermal lipid synthesis, and through the decrease of Desmoglein-1 synthesis. It decreases the TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss), and increases the efficacy of SCCE (Stratum Corneum Chymotrypsin Enzyme).

– Tocopheryl Acetate : Vitamin E (Tocopherol) derivative

The four first ingredients could be the components of the “Lumi-Gen” technology.

Another ingredient is shared between the two formulas. It is not a biological active ingredient, but more a physical active ingredient :

– Bismuth Oxychloride : sold among others by Merck Chemicals, it is said to “impart the following characteristics to cosmetic products: classical natural color effects, sophisticated silky pearlescence, superb skin-feel, enhanced binding and compressibility, non-toxicity, low oil absorption and good skin adhesion. It is also a functional filler that will significantly enhance the wearability, i.e. smooth skin feel plus high skin adhesion of many personal care and cosmetic formulations.” This powder very probably correspond to the “Liquid Light” technology discussed in UK on the Youth Code Luminize range.

The US SPF30 formula shares Castanea Sativa (Chestnut) Seed Extract (Recoverine) and Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid (Pro-Cysteine) and Bismuth Oxychloride with the two other formulas.

Day Cream (Europe)

Formula Structure

O/W Emulsion, emulsified with Croda Arlacel 165 (PEG-100 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate) helped with Stearic Acid / Palmitic Acid / Cetyl Alcohol as co-surfactant, thickened and stabilized with Clariant Hostacerin AMPS (Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide / Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate) (described for example in this patent) and Carbomer. The formula also contain Polysorbate 60, a surfactant very probably brought to the formula through another raw material as an active ingredient.

The oil phase is made of Dimethicone, Octyldodecanol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene and Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate.

The aqueous phase contains glycols : Glycerin and NOF Wilbride S-753 (PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin). Wilbride S-753 is claimed by its supplier to be a “water soluble oil”. It is “a synthetic polyalkylene glycol ether of vegetable glycerin, transparent, liquid and colorless. It is said to moisturize and protect without greasy or sticky feel, with high skin affinity and significant reduction of friction coefficient. It is soluble in polar oils as well as in water (HLB～13), which make it possible to prepare micro emulsion by cold process“. NOF has demonstrated a synergistic moisturizing effect of Wilbride S-753 with Glycerin.

The formula also contains powders :

– one of the Shin-Etsu KSP-100 silicone powders (Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer). They consist of a spherical silicone rubber cores chemically bonded to an outer shell of silicone resin, and impart a soft, silky feel and good dispersibility with reduced agglomeration.

– Bismuth Oxychloride : see more details above

The formula also contains an ingredient with the INCI name “Acrylates Copolymer“. A lot of raw materials are available under this name. It could probably be here another powder.

Preservative System

The formula is protected against microbiologica growth by Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol and Ethylparaben, helped with Disodium EDTA (chelatant) and Carpryloyl Salicylic Acid (a lipophilic salicylic acid derivative with antimicrobial properties).

The formula also contains two pH adjuster : Triethanolamine and Sodium Hydroxide.

Active Ingredients

The formula contains the following active ingredients :

– Niacinamide: see more details above

– PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin) : NOF Wilbride S-753

– Ascorbyl Glucoside : see more details above

– Capryloyl Salicylic Acid : already seen in Vichy Idealia recently launched, it is an active ingredient owned and patented by L’Oréal. It is an ester of Salicylic Acid which has more or less the same properties as Salicylic Acid, but unlike Salicylic Acid that is water soluble, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid is oil soluble. This improves its ability  to penetrates the upper layers of skin, and its efficiency as a keratolytic agent. It is thus an interesting active ingredient in anti-aging products, to help remove dead cells and renew skin. It also has antibacterial properties as a member of the salicylic acid derivative family.

– Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid : see more details above

– Castanea Sativa (Chestnut) Seed Extract : see more details above

– Tocopheryl Acetate : see more details above

SPF 30 Day Cream (USA)

Formula Structure

O/W emulsion emulsified with Sasol Ceralution H (Behenyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (and) Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate) surfactant, thickened and stabilized with Seppic Sepigel 305 (Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7), Beneo BBC Inutec SP1 (Inulin Lauryl Carbamate) and Xanthan Gum. Inutec SP1 is an inulin derivative polymer with O/W emulsion stabilizing properties.

The oil phase is made of Isohexadecane, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, a silicone gel, associating a silicone oil and a silicone crosspolymer : Shin Etsu KSG-16 (Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer) and 4 UV filters : Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (US OTC name Avobenzone, also known as Parsol 1789), Homosalate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate (US OTC name Octisalate) and Octocrylene.

The aqueous phase contains glycols : Glycerin, Propylene Glycol and Caprylyl Glycol.

The formula also contains powder : Bismuth Oxychloride

Preservative System

The formula is protected agains microbiological growth by Phenoxyethanol and Sorbic Acid, helped with Caprylyl Glycol as a co-preservative, and Innuspec Natrlquest E30 (Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate), a chelating agent presented as an “environmentally friendly alternative to EDTA“.

Active Ingredients

The formula contains the following active ingredients :

– a UV filter system :

       – Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (US OTC name Avobenzone, also known as Parsol 1789) : UVA filter used here at 3%

– Homosalate : UVB filter used here at 5%

       – Ethylhexyl Salicylate (US OTC name Octisalate) : UVB filter used here at 5%

       – Octocrylene : UVB and short-UVA filter, used here at 7%

– Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid : better known under the name HEPES, it is usually used as a buffering agent. L’Oréal holds a patent (US20030232063) for the use of Aminosulfonic Acid compounds (such as HEPES) for promoting desquamation of the skin.

– Castanea Sativa (Chestnut) Seed Extract : see more details above

– Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid : see details above.

Corrector Serum (Europe & USA)

Formula Structure

O/W emulsion, emulsified by Croda Arlacel 165 (PEG-100 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate) / Potassium Stearate and Potassium Palmitate (from Stearic Acid and Palmitic Acid neutralized with Potassium Hydroxide) helped with Cetyl Alcohol as co-surfactant, thickened and stabilized with Seppic Sepigel 305 (Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7) and Xanthan Gum.

The oil phase is made of Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate and Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate.

The aqueous phase contains 2 glycols : Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, and Alcohol Denat.

The formula contains a powder : Bismuth Oxychloride.

Preservative System

The formula is protected against microbiological growth with Phenoxyethanol, helped with Alcohol Denat. and Disodium EDTA.

The formula also contains a pH adjuster : Triethanolamine, and a pH buffer : Sodium Citrate.

Active Ingredients

The formula contains the following active ingredients :

– Niacinamide : see more details above

– Ascorbyl Glucoside : see more details above

– Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid : or “HEPES”, see details above

– Sodium Hyaluronate : it is a polysaccharide naturally found in the body, functionning as a tissue lubricant. It is the salt form of Hyaluronic Acid. It is often used as a moisturizer due to its capacity to hold water. As a polymer, it also participate to the texture of the formula, making it more slippery.

– Adenosine : seen in Vichy Idealia, this ingredient is said to have anti-inflammatory properties, and benefits in wound-healing. This study suggests that is also have anti-wrinkle properties. More details are given by BioSpectrum, a supplier of Adenosine : “Adenosine exerts several of its actions by binding to adenosine receptors located on the surface of vascular and skeletal muscle cells and it is thus in the interstitium that adenosine exerts its action. Adenosine reduces the effect of calcium, the main messenger of contraction, on the inside of the cell. Adenosine drains the skin, leaving it light and smooth. It improves an appearance of wrinkles and increases skin smoothness.”

– Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid : see more details above

– Castanea Sativa (Chestnut) Seed Extract : see more details above

– Tocopheryl Acetate : see more details above

Ingredients

Day Cream (Europe)

Corrector Serum (Europe & USA)

SPF 30 Day Cream (USA)

Active Ingredients

Cosmetic Ingredients

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